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Three days of labor. Probably about $3500 or so. FCA needs to get replacement parts out there. Disconnect the connect from the side using a trim removal tool and carefully adjust the pins. Very carefully.

On my JL, the dealer covered it. Required replacing the wiring harness and stripping the dash down to the frame! No repair kit part was available.

My wife has a JLUR that has only been to the dealer once for the steering damper recall. We call it “The Unicorn” because such a thing is that rare. My JTR is in the shop now for a rear locker failure and two other issues. We have a history or Jeeps and a history of issues. Other makes, not so much.

I have a very similar setup (same hitch, same load) but with less weight distribution. My front gets back to the original height, but not lower like yours. My back squats a little more. This puts me at the highest amount of weight distribution the hitch manual suggests (wants front halfway back...

Careful here. Rubi front fenders are higher up. There is a factory rake with the back higher unloaded. Squat an inch and a half In the back with a heavy tongue weight and it’s level. But the front fenders will still be higher because that’s how they’re built on a Rubi.

You need to get the paint out first. Bang (very gently) the bit in there around in various directions.

So what if the doors store in the back. We can just throw ours in the bed and strap them down. Or, tow them in a trailer with some concrete blocks. As long as Ford doesn’t make a truck version... but they don’t know how to make trucks. Right?

This big engine is not needed. It’s fun to tow at 6000 rpm.

Looks like it just got back from the dealer.

That’s the equivalent of a 72 year old in Jeep Windshield Years.

I don’t understand this thread. The Jeep’s name is Eugene.

Stagecoach mode! Keeps the kids safe in the back.

With the Echo, get a phone mount so the emergency trailer brake function is readily accessible. Then use CarPlay for all other functions. Echo app on the phone screen, CarPlay on the radio screen. Disable auto screen lock in display settings. This works very well.

I paid $120 for the dealer to install my e2 because I didn’t want to do it myself in their parking lot. It was clunking around worse than I’d expect. I found the shank bolts where loose. Spec on those is 250 ft lbs. They were less than 100. If you don’t have one, get the 1/2 in drive Tekton...

After reading through this and other threads and driving several JL/JTs (2018s to 2020s, all Rubis) I have a few conclusions with which you may or may not agree. 1. All the JLs and JTs (five total) I’ve driven (100s of miles) felt loose to me. Some were more loose than others. About 1/2 to 1 in...

Snap a picture with a ruler on top of those pieces of tape, and I can let you know how it compares to five other JL/JTs I’ve driven extensively.

Take measurements of the FRONT for the WDH setup. Here are the instructions for my hitch: https://www.fastwaytrailer.com/pdf/FW_e2_Trunnion-Owners-Manual.pdf Look at page 15 and see where yours is. With a 600 lbs tongue weight and the trunnions connected, I get back to the unhitched front...

Agree the 75-85 range is best without gear. It’s 90 here today which means I’ll collapse from heat exhaustion if I walk more than five paces away from my house, or if I slow down below 45 mph driving a naked Jeep.

Haven’t done it with a manual, but the auto works hard grinding through 8 speeds. The auto’s advantage for towing and off road is what swayed me.