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Yes only if you want to rotate 5 and know the PSI. If not then no. If you don’t mind the tire light you don’t need any.

I would chalk test for street pressure. I believe they are an “E” tire so it’s likely 30 is a good starting point. Also their tread block is fairly flat to begin with. As for off road, that’s up to you. It’s likely you can run street pressure unless you really want to air down. If you do, 20...

I echo Sarcasm. Ocracoke is nice as is Banner Elk. Or trek out to the Great Smoky mountains. Plenty of forest service and fire roads in Pisgah NF near Banner Elk too. You could always hit Uwharrie OHV trails too.

Steel wheels are sold. Granite crystals remain.

I’m running 2” rear and 3” front. No spacers and running falcon shocks. Also have a icon rear track bar, synergy front track bar and synergy front lowers. In my opinion the ride far exceeds stock. Just as plush but corners much better with less body roll. Just installed the shell today. *my...

I wasn’t as lucky. It’s almost unbelievable that you have 3”’of lift and your axle is 1/4” off center. I mean that math is almost impossible.

I think someone has already sent you a link but any geometry change affects the Jeep. Keeping the geometry as close to stock as possible provides a better ride, better tire wear, better mechanical component wear, and also helps eliminate things like death wobble. Yes it may not be 100% necessary...

you axles will be off center with any amount of lift. 2” and it will be off around 3/4” in the front and 1/2 in the rear. But to each his own.

My post was more of a joke than anything. In reality you can piece together a nice kit for around $2500. Install isn’t bad but everyone has their own level of mechanical ability. Some don’t have the necessary tools and it can be intimidating with a Jeep sitting on jack stands. Basically if...

You can drive to my house in NC and I’ll do it for $2600 (including parts and labor) and let you watch and learn. It’ll take us 4 hours. For $3000 I’ll provide you an adjustable front trackbar which you will want with 2” of lift and beer if you’re old enough

I have Teraflex 1.5” front spacers (can run 1” or 0.5” or both together for 1.5”) and my factory Rubicon Fox shocks. Pm me if you’re interested, I’m in NC. The shock have 1,900 miles on them and the spacers have less than 200 (they were used for mock up purposes).

they are nearly new but no louder than my factory Falken MTs were. I have a hotheads headliner and don’t notice the tires at all.

Teraflex says that their setup will essentially add 1.5” of extra bumpstop. Their setup will not compress as much as factory according to them. Haven’t tested mine yet but I’m hoping it’s accurate.

Mix of parts including Synergy springs, arms, front trackbar and steering brace, Falcon shocks, and Icon rear track bar. Running 37x12.5 Cooper STT Pros.

Funny you say that. My tag finally showed up today. Also, I avoid Gatlinburg at all cost...

Anyone else running the rear Teraflex bumps? Im confused because they say they are 1.5” longer than stock. Well, my tape measure must be off? Are the FACTORY Rubicon bump stops longer than the other variations or something? I’ll call Teraflex tomorrow.

What light strips and how did you attach them? About to do the same thing.

It will also benefit anyone running wider tires to help minimize or eliminate rubbing on the stock arms at full steering lock.

I will be down towards Chapel Hill Monday and Wednesday but heading back home around 3:30 or so

Triad (Winston Salem) area but I’m frequently toward Charlotte and Raleigh.