how do you plan on securing it so it doesn't walk off. Or is the assumption out of sight out of mind since it'll be covered by the tonneau cover?
I ask becasue I'm in the same situation and don't really want a traditional truck box. Just seems like I'm headed int hat direction.
Yup! On my jku, I eventually only replaced when it was in my line of sight. Had 5 chips that played connect the dots at one point. Went through all the stages of Jeep ownership:
1. Oh no! Gotta replace with OEM... Need that jeep emblem on there.
2. Seriously?! Not getting OEM, but got to...
happened once for me during one of my first fill ups. It has a larger than usual gas evap rubber disc thingy. I chalked it up to not being deep enough. Hasn't happened again, but I ensure it's balls deep now...not just the tip.
Yeah, this is my first truck with M/T where previous M/T are sporty cars or motorcycles. Must be my expectations. Not that I ever thought this was going to win any drag races, but must still not be approaching this. I'll admit I have a heavy foot. Even in my JKU with Auto, i'd be quick off...
This is what I would have expected. I still get the lurch even with no gas input.
So for example, I start rolling in first with gas coming on and clutch transitioning, release clutch and continue accelerating in 1st to about 3500 - 4000. off gas, clutch in, shift to 2nd, on gas, big lurch...
I appreciate that. I'll gave it try, but man I'm just not coordinated enough to do that quickly. I ended up taking forever and was sure I'd get rear ended.
It's funny how some things are different. I had an Explorer Sport Trac a while ago. Everyone wanted to get the largest tires to fill the gap. That was what many truck folks did. Then when I got my JKU, the preference is a larger lift and flat fenders in order to increase the gap. The point...
I have bags for the snowboards. For a family of 4 snowboarders, I plant to just put them in the bed while in the bags. If it looks like they will get bounced around, I may casually put a ratchet strap across the to keep them more or less in place.
I don't prefer the ski or board racks as...
12.5 is the width of the contact patch not the bead/rim. if you look at the specs (i.e. tire rack) on a 35x12.5, the recommended wheel rim width is usually 8"-10" or something like that.
On my JKU I had 35/12.5 on my stock rubicon wheels. It bulged a little, but no issues on road, on trails...