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I agree, back pressure would be more than that at anything other than idle. Didn't want to jump the gun but photo looks like carbon; my money would be in failed HP cooler. It's most likely to cavitate and crack (isb's had this issue for years) but kind of hard to determine unless the motor...

Best hillbilly test you can do, pop the rad cap (cold) and stomp it for a few seconds. If it's 'ol faithful: either combustion gas from head gasket is getting in or EGR cooler failed. Is the residue carbon-y or milky when it's not in the cap? If it greys out it's oil, if it's deposits your...

So this thread reminded me I filled mine with regular p/s fluid (1/2 pint) in a pinch, and was going to swap it later... That was 40k ago. Main difference between regular and the synthetic is temperature. If you leave both bottles out in 20 degrees the synthetic will still pour like oil...

I picked up the Napier and camped in plenty of storms, the lil awning on it does a good job of directing rain away from the door. Hardest part is finding an air matters that doesn't turn you into a human chalupa with the wheel humps.

Technically all gladiators came with Selec-trac, just Selec-track II, or Selec-track III; with the newest version having "4Auto". It's kind of a crapshoot which models got CVs, my EcoDiesel High Altitude got CVs with the wide-axle and I only have 4HI. And I don't think they designed the...

Well that's new. The actual feed line is leaking? Or the injector body? I imagine if it was the return it'd run just... messier

Good catch, I did mistype that. But still would have to cycle through 'run' with the stupid push button to get back to 'off' so should have gotten some drips if there was a leak

The lift pump on these isn't weak sauce, did you try a couple key cycles? You'll know immediately if you popped a fuel line; in which case, easiest and least EPA friendly way is leave it in ACC and find where it's coming from. An unrelated things I would check would be your battery terminals...

I see one oil drop in the first photo, what am I missing in photo #2?

Had mine sit for 7mo while debating if it went back to stock and got turned in (was already way over mileage). Decided to buy it, threw a jump pack on it, and the wife has been daily driving it since. While it was my daily I was syphoning 1 year old+ diesel out of dead trucks and running it...

Wait... Adjusts the Bluetooth? As in your audio is still on Bluetooth while it's plugged in? Been a while since I bothered hooking my phone up but I seem to recall it switching the media source. Have you tried shutting off Bluetooth before plugging it in?

It's possible it's related to the brake controller. If something happens to backfeed into the signal it receives for brake application (some are tapped into the switch, some get signal the datalink), or high draw/poor ground from the trailer brakes through the 7-way (voltage will find ground) it...

Did they provide you with the codes they pulled?

There are some minor gains to be had: reduction of heat from exhaust into the cooling system (actually a negative in the winter), ease of access to components, decreased heat trapping, and quicker spool of the turbo. But honestly, nothing you'll generally notice in a daily driver, especially one...

For longevity sake: the less soot shot back into the intake the better. Unfortunately the CCV also feeds directly into the intake (pre turbo) and mixes this with oil mist creating a hardened carbon... Honestly if these engines didn't utilize swirl valves in the intake it really wouldn't be a big...

50% may just be it's default, if it's not still injecting (and don't see why it would be if the flash was successful) it's better to get that out of there before it becomes a big ball of crystals. I guess it's possible the mil is just disabled and it'll keep trying until it runs out (I'm not...

Despite the condescending tone here, you are asking the right questions, and I gave you possible causes and what to monitor. To break it down further (based on the techs story): -You either had a manufacturing error on your turbo; meaning tolerances were off and it eventually just destroyed...

I agree with Rusty: Customer loses a turbo that's what I'm generally replacing. Low boost code was likely set from the exhaust restriction not letting the turbo spool (seen some ISB/L9s get bad enough the boost hoses collapse and engine dies), swirl valve fault from the excess oil and carbon...

1) Best practice is pull off all the components that DEF was in (tank, filler, lines, injector) and flush everything with water... Then do it 20 more times and there's a chance it's reusable if needed... In all honesty, you'll likely never save the feed line. Also, interesting. Does it still...

Mine has looked the same for 3 years now (tried using a prybar before looking up how the flap was attached). It'll still seal well enough you can fill it all the way up the neck with out it leaking all over the fender. Also diesel doesn't evaporate, so no evaporative emission system. AKA you...