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Just to share my experience with the Yokos. My previous tires were the MTs, and I was amazed at the road manners, durability and traction. The only thing I didn't like was how badly the cleats chunked in desert rocky wheeling. So, I decided to switch to the XTs since I do far more desert running...

Toad is common jargon in the RV community.

As others have stated, gearing could be a factor. However, I often run our group rides as the tail-gunner, and my air filter and MAF get dirty quickly. Whenever mine starts doing that I simply clean the filter and MAF, and it runs like a champ again.

Mine did the same after I went to 37 inch tires, but once I regeared, it has no problem holding speed in the mountains of Arizona.

A stock JT has better road manners than the JL.

Nit-picking here, but if they're thinking of putting it on the dash, that interior heat would significantly reduce the efficiency...thus making your roof-mount a much better option.

I've had four windshields replaced on my Gladiator. All of the technicians asked to set up a calibration for the next day...which I declined. So far, (knock on wood) my ACC still works the same as always. However, the calibration should always be part of the quote...

I'm not sure if these are filled with nitrogen or some other inert gas. If not, it seems like a repair would be very similar to a windshield repair. At the very least, I would think it's worth a try to seal it with some sort of clear epoxy or acrylic as opposed to buying a whole new or used...

Turtle Wax Ceramic Hybrid

My 37" Yoko MT fits with a little persuasion. Others have had to air down; which should be no problem since we all carry a compressor anyway...right?

I had 37" Yoko MTs on my fairly heavily loaded JTLE, and routinely hit 8th gear on the interstate, but still only averaged 14.5 over the long-term. I recently installed 5:13s which gave me all sorts of performance improvement and improved my mpg to 16.5...however, that requires speeds under 70...

I'm having the exact same issue and have had to shift manually on the last couple of outings. I get lulled into a false sense that the issue has "taken care of itself" since it doesn't seem apparent on the road. The first couple of times it happened I just thought I was having a fuel or air...

37X12.50 Yokohama Geolander G003s had to be "persuaded" into place with a floor jack, but fit fully-aired. The Geos, are one of the truest 37s out there, so most others should fit.

I've been building and driving FSJs (Full-sized Jeeps; Wagons and J-Trucks) since 1978, but always thought I'd like a roadster. When the Gladiator came out...I knew I'd found my perfect mid-life crisis vehicle! And the current Rubicons are more capable out of the box than the uber-modified...

Gonna give it a few weeks as a trial. The Rubicon's 410s and 8 speed might be forgiving enough for me on-road, and the 4:1 low gear should make the 37s irrelevant off-road. But eventually I plan on pulling a small overland trailer, so I'll probably swap gears then.

Went with the 3.5 True Dual Rate; installing tomorrow. Ordered 37/12.50 Yokohama Geolander Mt G003s. Yet to order Tom Woods driveshaft. Thanks for your input!

Thank you for the quick response! With the Rubicon, I'm really wanting to lift it only as far as necessary to fully clear 37s. But the 2.5 kit that MC sells is for the front only. Also, the Rancho 9000s would severely limit my travel; so the whole discussion is probably moot! I'll probably end...

I'm considering the MC 2.5 for my Rubicon. @.5 seems like more than needed for simply levelling, but I haven't seen anybody address whether it raised the front too high. Currently, I think I've only got about 1.5" of rake; so would I need a 1" spacer in the rear? I'm thinking of going with...

Why does airing down work? A 20 to 25% reduction in air results in almost 250% increase in contact (floatation)!