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It was iTunes and it was 2001 and was either from a CD rip or a lossless file from ripping a vinyl album. It was the only song I ran into that had a problem, but one was enough.

When I was turning my music collection into mp3/aac files there was one song, I forgot which it was, that mp3 could not get right even at high bit rates. It sounded like crap. Luckily it happened early in the process, before I had gotten too far. That's when I switched to AAC. I also have them...

Ha! Already did it. That interpretation works, too, on a lot of days.

For The Win I've searched up a lot of other ideas but most are taken or not that good or not easy to understand. But some people don't know what FTW means either, and it is maybe too pretentious (or something), so every now and again I look again.

I am much the same way. I like the warranty for the first few months, before I start wanting to change things. After that I feel like I am throwing bits of it away that I paid good money for. I am soon going to take advantage of the body corrosion warranty, a little over 2 1/2 years into...

Shutting off your Jeep and leaving it in park is normal operation, not something that would typically run the batteries down unless it was unused for months or one of the batteries was going bad. Unfortunately all of the suggestions require some knowledge of the electrical/battery system and...

Doesn't matter how hard you hit, it isn't supposed to do that. No wonder you had death wobble afterward. Seeing what happened to you, I'd be concerned if I had that same lift. If it has an adjustable rear trackbar from the same company, you might want to consider replacing it too, or at least...

Because repairs can be expensive and most people don't want to risk warranty denial or have to fight over it. I have chosen to be my own warranty station for some things.

Legally that may be true but if it gets brought up as the cause of failure, it will begin as warranty denied and it will be an uphill battle and probably a lot of time and money to overturn it. Most people likely feel they are better off not opening that can of worms, so they run the specified...

Or you are disconnecting the main ground, not the ground from the aux battery.

Other than bending the pitman arm so far that it lost half of its effective length or blowing something up internal to the steering gear, I can't see how you would have to turn the steering wheel that far to make a turn.

I'm gonna give that a try. I have been wondering if Fluid Film worked itself in there and reduced the friction just enough for it to creak.

Judging by the wiring diagrams, if the relay is stuck in the energized mode (open) or corroded, the aux battery will not connect to the alternator, and the main battery will not be connected to the things the aux battery runs (radio, keyless ignition node, and a bunch of other electronics). Same...

Like George Burns smoking cigars like a chimney and living to 100. If drinking gets you to 100 and smoking gets you to 100, I'll do both and live to 200. There are examples of PUG engines lasting several 100K miles on 0w20 and others failing at less than 50K. Same probably is (or will be) true...

So far what I recall the arguments for and against 0w20 are For 0w20: Owners manual says to use it Belief that the engineers are smarter than all of us and they were the ones that decided 0w20 is the best oil for engine lubrication and longevity, that it was not a compromise between longevity...

And you wonder why people (i.e., those who disagree with you) don't listen to you? Has denigrating people on the other side of a debate ever swayed anyone to your side? Oh, and a caulk or grease gun would be easier.

Oil viscosity and differential gearing are polarizing topics here and elsewhere. It is kind of pointless to argue, no one is going to change anyone else's mind, but for some reason we all keep doing it.

Yeah, we get the option of an aluminum housing so it doesn't warp/crack and leak externally or we get a plastic one with a better internal seal so oil and coolant don't mix. One solves one problem, the other solves the other, neither does both as far as I know. Given the choice I'd rather have...

Mine is just a randomish pop that, as best I can tell, is coming from underneath middle right side of the truck. It seems related to frame flexing, not suspension or running gear. Mine is probably a skid plate.

Aren't the doors aluminum? Aluminum does not rust, it corrodes. If you see rust spots, it is something in/on the paint (like rail dust), not the door itself.