Yes but the shafts are different I think, with the rubi locker the shafts are shifted I believe compared to the open. (as was stated above the axles are the same the shafts are not) I am wondering if the elocker will work with the non locker shafts.
Thinking about an elocker for the front of my max tow. Would I need to swap shafts? I have the CV’s and selectrac. If i need new shafts then i would probably do an arb and the 35 spline RCV’s instead.
Any luck finding the issue. I am having a similar issues. It clunks when I back it up to leave for work and maybe the first stop. It sounds like the back then it sounds like its coming from the front.
Nope. I knew I wasnt keeping any of the max tow stuff anyway and figured it was mostly the crappy tires and caster. If swaping out everything basicly didnt fix it I would have But there was no point when front LCAs, track bars shocks and springs were getting replaced anyway.
It wasn’t...
My 2021 Max toe was awful off the lot. It was seriously scary to drive at 70. Corners felt like the thing was going to spin out. I Lowered the tire pressure immediately and it was still terrible. I tossed the shitty AT tires and added the mopar lift lcas and clayton springs. It is amazing now...
Gotcha the steels are black (at least from the pics I just looked up). I thought this jeep might have the steel knuckles since it was a diesel but I guess not.
Yup he said his front wasn't locked and he was bouncing. Also a diesel with what looked like heavy bumper and winch. A bit of weight on that front end.
@DC3 I think you are going to find there also is a computer you need behind the rear seat. I was looking at this to eventually go the other way if the select trac didn't hold up. I could be wrong but I am pretty sure there is a controller that is specific to the AWD.
As for everyone saying...
20% no exceptions plus the 10% for the credit card. Kinda like the Harbor freight deals of old. Now just waiting on the winch plate from barnes. The card isn’t bad. Didn’t realize its just a store line of credit. I can see using the zero percent financing for another welder or something.
I don’t need another line of credit but I think I may have to put it on the credit card. Maybe join the inside track but not sure if it can double stack.
Yea I am thinking badlands apex 12k or the zeak 13k maybe. The zeak is $200 cheaper than the badlands and doesnt seem to have bad reviews. But who knows the good reviews are probably bought and paid for.
The badlands are pretty proven winches and on sale for $550 with a coupon till the 20th.
Yea I could possibly see it being sorta close. There were washers on mine that i think i will ditch when I add the winch and winch plate. I still think there should be enough bolt to work.
did your skid plate bolt up ok? Or did you use one?
i just used the bolts that came with the bumper that go through the tow hook. I think they were a little shorter than the ones on the plastic bumper and the threads were different. But they worked fine. They are only going through like 3/8” or so of bracket on the end of the frame.
Got my bumper and skidplate on without too much trouble today.
First issue was the aftermarket led fog light connector to the factory harness. The pins didnt line up exactly so i had to straighten the pins a little and finally got it.
The factory fog light harness I got didnt really line up...
Thanks for posting the thread on it it was helpful. My skidplate and harness shipped today. So hopefully I will work on swapping the bumper this weekend.
SkidPlate Installation instructions.
Looks like 40ft lbs. for the rivnut bolts. Way less to crush the rivnuts and 20 to mount the skid plate.
You may have to go back and use the german torque spec. Gutendheit
Yes I got the amazon karfu or whatever knock off. I should have picked up the 10th anniversary because it doesn't have the PDC holes in the wing. Didn't realize that till I read it after I bought this one. Not a huge deal and I could always weld the holes closed and paint if it bothers me too...