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Yes, they are seated correctly on bottom

Is there supposed to be a rubber isolator on top of the stock front coil springs? I just replaced my Iron Rock Off-road spacers with Clayton’s 2.5 inch springs. I ended up getting more lift than expected out of the springs (4 inches on one side and almost 5 on the other) and I’m wondering if...

A couple hundred pounds is negligible

We own one of each. Besides being noisier at idle the 2.0 in my wife’s JLU is hands down superior to my 3.6 in every way. It handles 35s better despite a gearing disadvantage (3.45 vs 4.10) while still getting better mileage. It’s faster off the line. She can actually use 8th gear. Had it been...

In 1997 where it belongs

Sorry, I was agreeing with you

That’s what I’m thinking. And if the bolts weren’t painted I’d have no problem trying to adjust it. I’d hate to get the door adjusted just to have it look like crap because I messed up the paint on those bolts. Wonder if I could find a soft or non-marring torx socket?

The door lines up when closed so adjusting the striker is definitely not the answer

The work was done over a year ago. I spend most of my time with the doors off so I really didn’t notice it until just recently. The door is off. When I close it the striker lifts the door up so that the gaps and lines all line up when it’s closed. There’s no adjustment in the striker

My driver door hits the striker about 1/2-3/4 low and the door rattles when I hit bumps.. I think it happened when the body shop had it for corrosion but I really didn’t notice it too much until it was too late to take it back. How can I adjust the back side of the door up so it hits the striker...

I have 35-11.50 Toyo AT3 on 17x9 +12 roctrix wheels. IMO it’s a perfect setup. Tires are covered by the flares perfectly

What adapters did you use for the soundbar?

I’m only interested in a manual if it’s in a sports car or a semi truck.

You still liking the stinger sub box? I’m seriously considering it right now

So here’s my 2 cents. If you want to make the installation as easy as possible, return that Memphis amp and whatever LOC that you got and buy an amp like this with speaker level inputs That allows you to eliminate the LOC altogether and simplify the installation. You can pull your signal from...

Wondering if anyone has used this and can give feedback on whether it sounds good and can get loud enough to overcome doors/top off driving https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/enclosures/txjtd8/

My hubs were always locked. Never know when you’ll be driving down the road and stumble across a mud hole.

I wish they would have given us the 2.0 as an option. I think it’s a superior engine. . My wife’s JLU on 35s with 3.45 gears has no problem cruising at 80 in 7th and 8th. My 3.6 Gladiator with 4.10s is usually in 6th at 75

I’m an old school stereo guy. For $2k I could build a system that would massacre that one

I’ve been going back and forth on a stinger Heigh10. I’m wondering if there is a significant difference in sound quality between using the stinger and using the factory 7 inch HU with a LOC. Plans are to use 6.5 components front and rear and a subwoofer all powered by a 5 channel amp. Main thing...