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Without Cricket 18 summer 16 winter, local trips towing Cricket about 14-16 summer 12-14 winter, long distance VA to CO about 10-12 this summer running about 75 through MO, KS, CO. Let me know if you have other questions.

Thank you for the heads up. I asked the shop to do these exact steps. So far about 2k local miles, 3k to Moab from VA, including Fins n Things trail and no backing off yet. I used a paint pen and watch closely. I really wanted MetalCloak or Steer Smarts but I wanted castle nuts on the ends more...

Fins n Things

I had the curt echo, was simple but I got sway and the app wasn't open. Switched to Redarc. It's always there and ready, this is mandatory for me now.

RPM steering, thank you @bleda2002 for your feedback on your experience. Castle nuts helped me decide as well, just a personal preference. Much less feedback on washboard sections of pavement, less delay when steering, just more confident steering.

Great, thank you for the response

Did you notice any negatives with aluminum and your on road performance? Considering going RPM or Apex, but if on road perfomance is not as good, then steel, thanks

I used these as my installation was tight with trial and error so didn't want to risk pre-crimped, but would go with above recommendation on battery cable USA otherwise. https://temcoindustrial.com/dieless-indent-lug-crimping-tool-8-awg-to-0000-awg-4-0/

Cricket Trailer by Taxa. 1500 lbs dry. Had it for 10 years now, hundreds of trips including this one from VA to CO. Been a great set up.

Installed the Redarc Brake Controller, no abs error lights when pressing it's manual brake button without pressing my brakes as some early builds did. 9/19 build date

Mine came factory on a 2020, so I do not have experience purchasing aftermarket, but here is some info https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/what-changed-in-the-mopar-roll-up-tonneau-cover-from-2019-to-2021.71169/ https://www.moparonlineparts.com/sku/82215617.html

Thank you, I really like this, but at this time they have no plans for the sides to have opening access panels like the rear, otherwise this one would have been purchased, love this otherwise, it would be perfect with the side access panels, thanks for the heads up.

For me, I love my factory mopar roll up, seems most companies do not want to design for that due to having to off set the mounts to accommodate for its width and probably lose load capacity / looks, but I am not doing a RTT, just want to put solar on top, but I am probably rare so I get it. So...

So helpful, thank you!

I have the Clayton 1.5 level, I put 0-1.5 Fox 2.0 in the rear and put 2-3 Fox 2.0 in front. Rides good, MetalCloak adjustable bump stops on order.

Installed Clayton level kit at 15k miles and BFG KO2 37s. Added Dynatrac HD Ball Joints as preventative maintenance at 75k miles and upgraded from factory fox to aftermarket fox 2.0 shocks now at 80k miles, very little wheeling other than Ophir Pass in CO and fire roads for camping here in VA...

Yes, and 200 amps is usually the recommended amp draw for 2000 watt inverter. This is what I put in my camper. You probably already know this, but be sure to use 2/0 wire to handle that 200 amps and an appropriate fuse on the positive. A rated kill switch would be goid as well. Enjoy, Its a nice...

If your near SW Virginia I'll give you some front Rubi springs. Just send me a message

I wish happiness for you and your children. Clayton and this forum are good resources, for the 37s, might want to consider regear when budget allows if you have 3:73. Otherwise recommend a Gooloo or another brand for jump starts if camping remote, have fun

Thanks, I have a little more offset than you from the looks of it, sorry about your experience