Ideally, when lifting the JT, once the new springs are in, the wheels are on, and the Jeep is back on the ground, all control arm nuts and bolts should be loosened and re-torqued. The service manual recommends torquing the control arms at ride height to prevent binding and wear on the OEM high...
Each corner of the Gladiator weighs a different amount and the Clayton springs aren't corner specific, so you will have a lean with them. This is true for basically all springs except the OEM Mopar springs. I compensated for this a bit by installing a Rock Jock spring shim under the front...
I purchased the Timbren SES but never installed it since the metal hardware was terrible. The backing plate/puck wouldn't fit into the Mojave bump stop retainer (possibly because the retainer is boxed in on the Mojave?) and the production welding on the backing plate nut distorted the nut so...
If I was only trying to get the suspension height back to stock, then the suspension geometry wouldn't change from stock and I would only change the springs.
But because I lifted 2.5", I changed basically everything on the suspension to correct the geometry:
AEV shock extensions
AEV bump stop...
Thank you sir.
We have the AEV shock extensions front and rear. Our JT is basically a Frankenlift of Clayton, Teraflex, and AEV parts. I did a short overview in a few posts in the following thread but should probably create a separate thread with more details...
We're using Clayton's rear springs to level out the Mojave with an extra 375 lb from the bed cap and roof top tent.
Jeep Gladiator 2.5" Triple Rate Rear Coil Springs 2020+, JT (COR-1510251)
The below picture is with the 375 lb cap and tent plus 500-600 lb of soil in the bed. The Clayton triple...
Anyone else install these and have any tips?
They welded the all metal lock nut onto the backing plate, preventing it from distorting and severely deforming the bolt during installation.
It also looks like the backing plate will need to be trimmed to fit inside the Mojave passenger side bump...
Agreed, you'll definitely notice.
Whether it's still "drivable" will depend on what gears you start with. Starting with 4.10's, which the Mojave comes with, and upgrading to smaller BFG 37's is effectively bringing your gear ratio down just below 3.73's, which the Sport comes with. Still...
Nice looking truck.
I'm running 37 BFG's on the stock 4.10 gears right now and don't feel regearing is required. Ideal but not required.
The reason you'll hit 8th a lot less often is because it's needed a lot less often given the higher effective gearing provided by the tires. Conceptually...
The front geometry correction brackets move both the upper and lower control arms to make them more parallel to the ground. This gives a better ride by transferring more upward force into the springs versus the control arm frame bracket when going over bumps. The front brackets also allow the...
Clayton also makes stiffer, overland centric springs with published spring rates. I'm using them to support my cap (175 lb) and roof top tent (198 lb).
With a constant 373 lb load over the bed, I'm getting 2" of lift with their front 1.5" springs and rear 2.5" springs.
AEV also sells their...
One benefit of the twin is increased air supply reliability. You can have one compressor fail and still run your lockers, sway bar disconnect, airbags, etc to get out.
The FAD is not disconnected in 4Hi Auto. The clutch in the transfer case needs to engage in milliseconds when the rear wheels slip. The FAD is too slow to engage that quickly.
Same, zero driveline vibration from 0-80+ in 4H Auto.
2.5" lift, 37 BFG KO2's, AEV geometry correction brackets on middle hole in front, Teraflex geometry correction brackets in rear.
Not sure what the caster actually is. Steers fine.
Already have Dana collar and Cavfab plate to install FAD...
The FAD also eliminates any front driveshaft vibration in 2WD. Correcting the caster when lifting worsens the front pinion angle, increasing the possibiltiy of front driveshaft vibration.