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Mr tuning is one tune they don’t modify anything further than their tune file. I’ve gone back and forth with EOC on this. They can remove some pids if you’re lucky and request it specifically beforehand but the tune is basically shift fuel map on the fly. Boost never gets turned up really like...

There’s only one tuner mrtuning and ecodiesel owners Canada. It’s a box tune that cranks the fuel up. Has switch on the fly for fueling. Requires you to mail your ecu in. they also have a transmission tune that makes it a bit more responsive. What these jeeps need are a larger turbo. I think...

All that’s for the gen 2. Gen 3 does 320-330whp even with big tires with just a tune and exhaust.

yep they know for sure that the pumps are not reliable.

Run a fuel tech 550 with a dash bracket to mount it to the cluster. Ditch everything oem.

3.6l has integral exhaust in the heads. There’s likely no gains from porting as you have a cast style log between the cylinders

Trade it in. Trust me. Best thing I ever did.

The fix for a pentastar is the ecodiesel which blows it away in every possible scenario. Tuning? With a tune and exhaust they make 330 to the tire and 550ish tq. One recently dynod just over 300hp with 37” tires at 5000ft elevation! When I had my petastar on 35” tires gladiator it was floored...

Put the motor in the transfer case or don’t do it at all.

I have a diesel so that does help

if you could post the ground locations that would be helpful. My Jeep has a few extra battery to chassis grounds, a larger odyssey battery, and removed the aux (this was done recently and the issue still persists). My voltage is very stable. I can monitor voltage with the banks gauge and it...

with no codes and good voltage I think the pump shuts off for unknown reasons

Mine has done this 4 times now since new. It happens when I floor it and let off to go into a turn dead stick until stopped for 5 seconds. No codes no explanation dealers said without a code they won’t find the issue

lol torque. Impact go brrrrt.

Clutch wont slip and overheat. That is all you are improving. The manual lacks torque multiplication of a converter AND has less gear to find while towing. The towing on these things are really limited by power. The diesels can pull harder but overheat. Its the entire powertrain being 1/4 ton...

You’ve done everything possible and still can peak the temps. Hard to believe. To me sounds like I can get away with just the radiator.

You place the degree wheel on the pump.....is it up is 0? Do you align 0 with a notch on the pump? It does not specify. How are you going to get the degree wheel on 2 pumps in the 100% exact spot? Should be clarified. Still easy to figure out.

Its been proven that you can just install one high quality battery, run the leads from aux up to the main, and call it good. ESS will function if you want it to no errors and your voltage is stabilized. The ESS dual battery junk would be fine if small batteries were manufactured like they were...

How did it do? Did you try the mishimoto radiator yet? I am doing that as step 1.

Looks like this is back as an option for me. Its basically lick and stick. You use the degree wheel to make sure its 100% aligned. Easy enough. doesnt say how to align the degree wheel? :