I have a full set of belly skids (Next Venture Motorsport) on my truck. It has an oval drain slot for oil, but unfortunately the oil does not drain straight thru the slot - sometime it gurgles and glugs and occasionally a little hot air apparently gets trapped and blows a nasty bubble through...
You’re talking about quadrupling the load on the existing wiring? I think you probably already know this is not a good idea. Jeep (and all mfgs) don’t put in oversized wiring that can handle this - usually it’s only barely adequate.
Running new wiring straight from the battery is the correct...
I also have a 2022 diesel (though I don’t think the diesel is any different than the 3.6 for this question). I’ve unplugged without unmarrying many times, and everything is the same when plugging back in. No problem
Problems may occur if you don’t unmarry and dealer reflashes the PCM, or if...
Inverter outputs might just be too square-wave for devices to recognize as AC. I have an electric fridge whose AC power supply happily runs on the Jeep’s stock inverter - but my EcoFlow battery box (River 2 Pro I think?) freaks out and shuts down with an error code if I plug it into the Jeep.
The diesel engine redline is 4500 rpm. Pentastar redline is 6500. The obvious implication for gearing calculation is best left as an exercise for the reader
I had this problem putting on an aftermarket tie rod. For getting the nut off the shaft, more torque. I got a cheap 3/4” drive set and had to use the 3/4” breaker bar, a cheater extension, and a lot of force. I’d also use a heat gun on the nut to soften whatever industrial loctite is on...
I dropped in new front axle ball joints, and RCV axles (the ones that that keep the FAD) this weekend. To remove the middle axle stub (from front diff to FAD) you have to remove the FAD fork and actuator. When I did, unlike the ~15 videos I watched of people installing RCVs on various JL/JTs...
Tagged for interest. I’ve been using a dumb simple Titan Sidekick with a battery-powered stick pump to transfer. But I’m switching to a Moeller under-deck marine HDPE tank in the bed (with my camper setup I happen to have an orphaned space in the bed that’s hard to reach, and this tank fits...
Sorry it’s not working out for you like this. How about a canopy with lockable lift-up side doors? Like Alu-Cab for instance. Very direct access to all parts of the bed from the sides and back, and you can mount Quick-Fists inside the doors for long thin items (shovel, axe, traction boards on...
Hm, you're right, the Rancho, Rustys, DatinFab versions all wrap around to the rear. RockHard4X4 does not
I have the RockHards. First of all, they will sell just the shock skid separate (link is a 4-pk with rear LCA skids) if you call. I paid $90 for just the shock skids. But I had to...
Interesting that the rear diff doesn't overheat in 2H, but they think if you divide the engine power in two, sending half to the rear and half to the front, now all of a sudden the front diff will overheat with half the power input? Similar differential size, same fluid capacity, very similar...
from what I experienced driving the Dalton, the mosquitoes in the Brooks Range are an epic calamity of the very highest order. By the time you cross the Brooks and get to the North Slope, they’re gone. Not much can live all the way up there but lichens
Technically it’s 15 or 40 amp. 15 is more than plenty to switch a relay like this, if you want to save the 40 amp circuits for other things that might need it
@RedX Check your front shocks for signs of interference from the springs? I have a front left clunk at full stuff, it’s a Clayton 3.5” coil hitting the bottom edge of the shock body. More of an axle alignment issue than a spring issue tbh
Tagged for interest. I don’t care too much about security but on my old Tacoma, the horns were bolted to a flimsy folded flap of metal off the grille frame. On one long, punishing high speed desert washboard road that flap fatigued and broke. The horn fell between the radiator and a crossbar...
My 200w panel puts out 10.74 amps at peak (pointed directly at the sun, and not too hot or too cold). Voltage changes a lot though, might be as much as 25 volts in the cold. Get a 50V input if you can
I have 200W hard-mounted solar and a DC/DC charger that maintains the starter battery (after the house battery shows full anyway). It’s REAL NICE never to worry about the starter. It’s not a daily driver and might occasionally go two months between starts.
200W solar + inexpensive MPPT is the...