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Yep access cover panel, smooth with the rest of the skid worth it - all these options are very expensive, so it’s gonna be hard for us to answer for you. OTOH I just completed the Rubicon with nothing broken and was on the belly skids the entire time.

And I have the Next Venture Motorsports on my diesel, happy to share. I don’t recall seeing anyone with the Motobilts but hope you shake one loose here edit: aluminum version, with the UHMW add-on

Could do Pleasanton! I assume you installed the receiver version and have this left over?

OK, so the non-receiver version is basically the same - same heavy dropdown crossbeam, same bracketry, just missing the receiver itself. Makes sense as this is probably part of the crash protection. From this post I understand that the steel Rubicon bumper + corner sliders + corner brackets +...

Got a part number for the non-receiver version (2)? nvm, looks like it’s 68368181AA. I guess this is the version that accepts a ball on the center bracket

My truck came with the factory tow package and the receiver hitch. I don’t tow, have never towed with this truck, not planning to tow. Meanwhile I’m rock crawling more and more, and the departure angle was the biggest problem for me on my recent first trip on the Rubicon. I’ve been using a...

Be prepared to wait for the badge if you request it. ~1.25 years waiting for mine

Did you install a rear track bar relocation kit with your lift? I was surprised how much the rear roll was reduced when I did. I’ve got a similar or heavier load in the back - Alu-Cab Canopy Camper, on 3.5” Clayton lift - and I ran without track bar relocation for maybe 5k miles. If you study...

Curious about the actual symptoms with the OP. Was it: CE light FCW unavailable service electronic throttle stop/start unavailable service electronic stability control OBD2 code P00AF OBD2 code P206D

The issue is that the side arms fold in, but fishhook out if inserted all the way inside the housing? What’s the nominal purpose of that piece? Seems destined for heartache with this design

Yikes https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/teraflexs-rzeppa-high-angle-cv-joint-on-a-4xe-suspension-setup-by-epic-adventure-outfitters.135534/ Sounds like a lot of confusion between the JK and JL/JT replacement joints

pretty good, I only get 3mpg going 175mph in my Bugatti Veyron :)

These are going to be popular. Too bad no older colors (like my Gobi)

If that's the question, there are oval plastic plugs under driver and passenger seats that are handy. Being close to the inside of the frame rails, that has to be the easiest place for cable ingress, easily sealed up again, invisible with the seats in place, and easy to get to with the seats...

Rear lower shock skids in particular get blasted by gravel. Powdercoat will not hold up. Not worth it IMHO.

Possible COVID parts shortage frankenaxle build?

I guess the question is, how do you identify which wires are which, so you don't accidentally wire to the wrong switch, or multiple things to the same switch, if using both the engine bay and footwell leads...

Typically the steel tie rods you see are hollow (you'll usually see "DOM tube" or "drawn over mandrel"), and can get dented and hold a bend. All the aluminum tie rods are solid cylindrical bar stock. Yeah steel makes a better spring than aluminum, all else being equal, but all else isn't equal...

Game changer for me too. Pricy yes, but well-made, easy to install, totally solved the problem for me. Worth it. I only got one for the driver seat, as I've noticed I move around enough when riding passenger that there isn't a problem for me, or my shorter GF. Speaking of her, she still has...

It’s quite easy to pull on the cables that attach to the underside of the seat when removing the seats. Same thing happened to me, and a wire had pulled slightly out of a harness under the plastic trim where the B-pillar meets the floor. I happened to be at the dealer for something and...