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I used fuel cans for years (decades really) and done with that used a Titan Sidekick for a long time with success. 15 gal, cheap, simple, easy. got it in my head to switch to a bed-mounted marine fuel tank for better space utilization with my camper setup, with a pump into a t-fitting in the...

timely advice

new profile pic! Camped out on glass-flat dry playa in Black Rock Desert for a cold thanksgiving week wheeling trip

If you've never seen this guy (Project Farm) your head might spin for a minute trying to keep up. Dash cams evolve rapidly, so this comparison from 8 months ago might be a bit out of date already. But it's good to see lots of results compared in one place, and get a good sense of how to...

Alu-Cab water tank kit and molle/pals cover panel for my Canopy Camper

Sure, good points. I chocked the wheels and nothing really moved. It was a pretty quick install overall, with the exception of one of the spacers on the inside of the metalcloak bracket - it was a little too tight inside and it took some work to get that installed right. The CAs were no big...

There are four control arms, two on each side. I only removed two at a time, one side at a time. The other side holds the axle in place. All the weight is resting on the springs, not on the control arm ends.

I did one side at a time with the tires on the ground, and adjusted the arms to center on the holes. Ideally that would mean the caster wouldn’t change? I did check again afterward and it was about the same (6 deg ish) and I didn’t notice any change in steering stability or recentering force

I started with 3.5” lift springs (Clayton diesel), control arms all around, proper increased caster. Ended up with considerable angle on the front arms and a lot of harshness on washboard roads. Even with my adjustable shocks wide open and tires aired way down I added drop brackets (metalcloak...

Down (but probably not until after the holidays)

This is the thread for you then. Ignore the first 5-6 pages where people were figuring out how to do it - start about where I linked https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/fill-neck-mod.37006/page-6

re: performance - you have two opposite things you want to balance against each other. One: spring rate as high as necessary to prevent bottoming out, and wallowing on side-slope transitions and highway dodging maneuvers. Two: spring rate as low as possible, to make sure you're not limiting...

Hm, not sure how applicable my experience is - I put on a 500+ lb pop-up camper before the springs, and have never run without the camper and a lot of load in it. But I've done a lot of highway, pretty tough off-roading, and the Rubicon with the 3.5" HD rears, and I don't think I've ever...

yeah - climb open until the rear spins and progress ceases, activate rear locker, progress until both rears and one front are spinning, activate front locker and pull thru. When I'm getting stuck like this - or perhaps "halted" if people are gonna be pedantic about "stuck" - it's usually from...

+1 to “helpful with rock crawling.” I did the Rubicon in my Rubicon this August, and without the front locker I’d have needed to winch 6-7 times climbing Cadillac Hill. Get stuck, line up steering, engage front locker, pull thru, disengage. Drive 20 feet, get stuck again, repeat. Sure glad I...

Awhile back I looked into this. Didn’t end up going for it, but the [Banned Site] forum had the most active threads on Jeep installs that I could find. One thing I learned there - there’s a position sensor on each corner, with small gauge loose wiring that can get snagged and broken. The system...

Yep same here, just trimmed around the mounting points with a sharp razor. I have a lot of customized stuff around the interior, so I used that razor a lot to improve the fit. Pretty easy

Anyone have a pointer to update notes for 11.4.7? ZAutomotive site has 11.4.6 as the latest: https://www.zautomotive.com/pages/tazer-jl-updates?srsltid=AfmBOop9mnBoh2QCO9_Qvvgc3uOMg6exqxEQvxR5AnJSzEER7X9-WaS7

Seat bolts to floor are definitely an E-type bolt, not sure exactly which size though

I had this issue once - turned out, one of the ends (driver upper in my case) had lost its nut and was completely loose and floating around. Those particular adjustable front endlinks (Clayton) were very hard to get properly torqued and the nuts were constantly wandering off. Pretty obvious...