I really can’t tell if this means “driveshaft” (i.e. the CV joint on the rear driveshaft) or “front half-shaft CV on the driver side of the truck”
That is correct - but only because so far in the real world, it has been true. And electricity is only one part of it, perhaps not even the biggest part of it. There is nowhere with an industrial base large enough to manufacture complex machines, and to mine / refine / transport raw materials...
Not particularly new - in locations where shipping fuel is extraordinarily difficult but solar power and atmospheric carbon is available, this kind of process is attractive and has been researched a lot:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/In_situ_resource_utilization...
There are 4-5 risers or 'towers' from the rear panel to the mating holes in the rear bulkhead. I think I broke 3 of them off completely. I could not find a way other than hulking out and breaking some.
I assume the rear seats are completely out? If you can sneak an arm up under the panel...
FWIW I bent a couple of those HF ball joint separators trying to get my bastard joint off. If you’re breaking tools, stop and just remove the pitman arm before any real damage occurs (to you, the steering gear, etc). The cutoff wheel and chisel is probably the safest way. Hopefully yours ain’t...
Can’t help with the Bilsteins. QQ - how much load are you planning? Empty bed, bed rack and gear, RTT, bolted-on camper?
I have the bolted-on camper (Alu Cab Canopy Camper) so I’m at the very heaviest end of the spectrum. I have the Falcon 3.3s matched to the heaviest springs I could find...
Oh god, been there. Mine was just about welded in place. Nothing I could do under the truck worked. Hammers, forks, heat, blowtorch, nothing. I had to pull the Pitman arm (Lisle 41970 HD puller), clamp it in a very large vise, and absolutely batter the drag link out with a heavy sledge...
I had a set quite like that on my previous truck with no built-in TPMS. Sucks a lot on a truck where you need to frequently change tire pressure - they need firm torque to keep from rattling loose, but the locknuts and tools were thin and hard to hold just right to get that torque. The...
Any indication that the replacements are better? My 2022 has hit this 5 times (P00AF, P206D, many caution&warning lights), always in elevated outside air temp, climbing at elevation, not towing but loaded pretty heavy with camper and contents.
Derate is extremely frustrating but it has always...
I saw your other thread on bumpers too - I have a Mopar-style full width bumper (MP Concepts aluminum) and I’ve seen no need to take the side extensions off. Rather, they don’t contact the 37s at all. They do sometimes contact the ground on extreme trails.
Yes mine’s Rubicon, and these are...
Diesels (and 392 Wranglers) come stock with longer jounce tubes than the 3.6, I guess because the oil pan sits lower and the factory saw fit to limit uptravel a bit. So if you see a particular lift kit saying you need to add 2” of bump stop, usually they have no idea that diesels already come...
Agreed it’s not a common weak point on the JT, and seems to handle large articulation without problems
I blew one up on a Tacoma, dented it on rocks and then it torqued in half like a pretzel. Current stock JT shaft has taken much worse. The ribbing on the torque tube adds a lot of strength.
Sorry, you asked about oil drain too. There’s an oval slot cutout in the engine skid on mine - which made an absolute mess as it both overshot and undershot and the hot oil flowed all over and dripped out from the most unexpected places. I installed a Valvomax drain plug, so fortunately it was a...