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As far as I know, yes they should be P&P. You may need a Tazer or similar if you are going from halogen to led, I think I've seen posts about a dash light???? Let me know if you want them and I'll box them up and send them!

Mopar LED DRL and Turn Signal lights from the front fender flares off my 2020 Rubicon. 100% functional with factory wiring harness in place, I did a fender chop and don't need these anymore. $250 shipped.

OK, well it was the primary battery again!!!! Except it looks like when I was messing with the connections I somehow blew a "Z type fuse" which cost me $267 at the dealer to be diagnosed and replaced!!!!! All is well now, oh yeah, they refreshed the radio while it was there.

We are actually on an 8 hour road trip to pickup a hardtop for her Jeep! She never complains....

For in my Gladiator this morning and the gauges were ticking and flashing? No other warning lights or messages, the vehicle will not do anything? I just replaced the primary battery 2 weeks ago after having numerous warnings about not being able to use the auxiliary switches. Has anybody seen...

Houston, TX 77059

Just use a spare with a double tapped wheel, one for air, one for water outlet. Fill it with water, put a little air in it (10 - 12PSI) and connect it to a water system for on-demand water! A 35 x 12 x 17 will hold approx. 38 gallons of water and weigh about 316#'s. Of course this would NOT be...

Any chance of shipping them? Just wrap em with some shrink wrap and put a sticker on em!

Leave the leveling kit and add the Mopar 2" lift, increase your front bump stops to 3" and don't look back!!!! Picture of mine running 37's, no rubbing even @ full flex, the gladiators really need 37's to "fill" the wheel wells. Just my opinion.

Here's mine!

I'm running the 2" Mopar with 1.5" pucks in the front with 3" bump stops, RockKrawler adjustable front trackbar, Falcon 2.2 SS and Rancho drop brackets. The rear is the lift springs, bump stops and RockKrawler relocation bracket . Camber is a little higher than I would like (6.8) but it tracks...

Anybody that has adjusted bump stops using the Metalcloak pucks, needs this in your toolbox!

Here's my alignment sheet

I have a 2" Mopar lift with Daystar 1.5" leveling pucks, Rancho drop brackets and my caster is @ 6.8, is this too high? It drives fine, it's a little flighty, but nothing bad, I do get a little shimmy in the steering if I hit a bump on a corner or at a weird angle, again nothing huge. Just...

Got the alignment checked on my truck today, caster was at 6.8, I have a 2" Mopar lift with 1 1/2" leveling pucks, Rancho drop brackets. Should I be concerned with the caster that high? Was thinking of getting adjustable uppers to correct the caster back to 5.5 - 6.0

2" Mopar lift with Daystar 1 1/2" pucks in the front, 37 x 12.5 x 17 Patagonia M/T's, AEV Borah with rash rings +4 offset.

I'm in the NASA / Clear Lake area and have done most of those things and would be happy to help. We used to have "tech days" in my old MC group, we would meet at someone's house and have various projects to work on, it was a great way to meet people and get stuff done.

I'm kinda thinking the same thing.....

With that little bit of sidewall I would think your gonna have to keep them pretty close to 38-40 PSI to keep from damaging the wheels on any potholes or other unforeseen obstacles.

I got 2 1/2" of lift front and rear after installing the Mopar lift, and the ride is so much better! I just bumped it out yesterday and found that I need to add some bumpstop to the front, maybe one more hockey puck, the rear was fine. I'm running 37 x 12.5 on AEV Borah wheels with +25 offset...