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I mean I don't really disagree but....not helpful :LOL:

Thanks for sharing. It's worth waiting for me. It sounds like a better option for daily drivers, those who tow now and then, and camping enthusiasts that stay full kit all the time.

I took the very rear muffler off. Has a little more sound on cold start and a slight drone 1900-2200 RPM. Almost unnoticeable over all, I did it more for clearance and aesthetics. Not exactly what you're asking for OP but provides a little perspective If you zoom in at the 2 o'clock position...

The Rancho slider should clear that set up https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/skid-plates/rs62138-rancho-performance-rear-differential-glide-plate

Thanks for the info. Too bad you didn't get an answer. Let me know what you find out. I'm not in a rush to switch yet... I may leave the JKS discos up front and go antirock rear.

I'm bringing this thread back up in hopes of an answer. I currently run JKS discos and they actually work great once you are used to the order (flat ground, one side then the other, get hands full of grease etc.) Been considering going antirock and not touching the sway bar ever again, but as...

I have a manual so its a different animal but I went with 4.56 so I can still do 75-80mph on road trips without hitting the high pressure oil pump. I'm still on 35s fyi

I pulled the spare to get some hitch measurements and the exhaust hanging down kept catching my eye. Decided to zip off the back resonator and trim the spare heat shield. A lot of room now! Does have a slight drone from 1900 to 2200 rpm otherwise no noticeable change.

Here's the updated tonneau/rack/tent combo. Held up very well on a trip to Moab for EJS and back from MN.

Another item I was eyeing up. It's just money... Last question, how do you like the antirock on road?

Thanks for the info. Trying to decide on a similar set up after telling myself i wouldn't go bigger than 35s. When you are offroad are you disconnected (front swaybar)?

Are you running fender liners? Any rubbing?

I have a sport s (open diff) and added the eaton e locker. It works

I'll be there Tues, Weds, Thurs! First timer really looking forward to it.

Good on you for taking the time and getting it right. I lost my shit and mangled the shit out of it. Had to put a new connector on the end when I was done.

Yup here was my build thread http://forum.powerwagonregistry.org/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=3593

I made a similar switch, you have good taste in trucks

https://www.jcroffroad.com/product/JTRV.html

See this thread https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/3rd-shock-over-rear-axle.24997/

Stock LCAs like what came on my Sport S from the factory. The Mopar kit has extended arms which, in combination with the geo correction brackets, caused the high caster numbers. The stabilizer is relocated above the drag link.