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I’d almost put money down on a few things: A. Diesel=dead forever… and I love mine! They failed on that motor a few ways 1. Too expensive of an option for what it is 2. Cooling capacity isn’t even close for what that motor produces and is capable of Expensive AF oil? I get parasitic loss to...

I’m reaching out here cuz Chrysler cannot/will not provide the flow rate range for the Bosch injectors. I can’t get it in to verify my findings that 4 of my injectors may be bad. The obd spits out compensation flow rates per injector and I have 4 that are in another country off from the two I...

Could just be this guy too…

So to follow up on my last response. I have been watching soot levels in JScan for the last week and a half since mine went into the- no more fun mode till dealer takes all your money message. It appears on my rig that ~ 75% soot mass is when the computer should call for a normal regen while...

Also I should have recommended everyone buying diagnostic tools because dealers in general can’t get anyone in regardless of your vehicle being inoperable or no for a month or more. Painful and frustrating when your Jeep is stuck in limp mode. I fully expect right to repair laws to continue...

Get JScan and the cable. You can clear all the codes except the permanent one which will after the likely high soot code your Jeep threw. I cleared all the codes, did a regen while driving and all went away. Mine did it Friday from denver to lake mac. JScan will show you the soot concentration...

I made my glad get to work on some projects at the house. ?

I’ll post a quick vid of what it’s doing tomorrow when I have to start it up again.

I’ve been on the phone with 5 dealers TODAY in my Area about this pump issue just to get a slot to have it confirmed. My Jeep will not start after sitting for 8 or more hours without progressively more start cycles. Today was 4 to get it to run. Chrysler has no solution even close to...

so I first had to tell it that it was special, was completely adequate for the application and there was nothing better..... Then I had to physically work the boot flange to change its effective angle relative to the shaft to gain a small amount more clearance until I can afford to bend over to...

No driveshafts. I massaged the front t-case side boot flange so it doesn’t eat itself at full droop. So far so good.

That thing is gonna "rub" everywhere more than a middle school kid up a flagpole! Even with an "average" 6" lift, the "rub" will continue. The front shaft boot will "rub" till detonation, the front stubby will "rub" at full stuff as well as "rub" in the back of the well too. Trim the rock rails...

:ontheloo:….

No problem. Mine is a daily driver too- ~ 800 miles a week. I was at about 20k on the 40’s when my problems arose. Drove perfect before that. I run 40’s on a 4.5”lift up front, with two inch spacers so I can attest to the track following because my steering geometry is off with scrub. The rest...

Sadly, you lost me at 24x14” wheels…. Those belong on SEMA trucks that don’t actually drive anywhere. If you want the 37”tire height and better ride, go back down to a 17” wheel that has something more than a rubber band worth of sidewall wrapped around it and isn’t 60% as wide as it is tall...

Everything but the steering box ( On back order cuz it's junk apparently). Fusion 2.5, sector brace, track bar, rebuilt control arms( they were good), fish plated axle side T bar bracket cuz the hole was oblong, and lastly the stabilizer.

Hurled a total of 2400$ fighting death wobbles. Last part to replace went on today.. Bought a 400$ sticker and they threw in a falcon stabilizer for free!?

That dampener is as functional and useful as nothing more than a shake weight to do anything for D-wobble…. In every way!!!!! I just dropped almost 2k on mine, Replaced all the steering with Fusion 2.5 T hardware, new track bar, had to weld up and fish plate the axle side track bar bracket...