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Yup, and that may be why the OP hasn't been back since posting. Keeping a thread on-track around here is like hearding cats.

I understand wanting to use any free service that has been provided, but if you have to go through wondering if too much oil was put in and then draining some out, then putting some back in, then IMO you are better off just doing the oil change correctly yourself.

IMO, the best thing you can do is keep the stock factory type air filter. That way, there is no question or debate about the filtration of air entering the engine. If all you are looking for is a little more noise, then you really can't beat using the Mopar CAI top filter housing and intake...

Yeah, I read that it was to keep from popping a bead, that's why I asked about spinning. My 255/85R17 are 35" x 10", and I'm now running them at 20psi off road on my 2-door JK instead of 15psi. The sidewalls seem to flex really well at 20psi and I don't notice any reduction in grip going to...

I'm interested in the Method "Bead Grip" wheels. Did you mark the wheels and tires at all to see if there was any slipping of the tires on the wheels? I'm only asking because my 255/85R17 Baja Boss ATs on my JKR (stock wheels) have slipped on the wheels a few times. I've had to thoroughly...

I run the Mopar CAI as well. I use it with the stock filter and no cutout in the hood. It adds a little intake noise and gives the engine a little more character. That's the only reason I bought it, and that's all it does. Plus, although the packaging says something like "for offroad use...

My vote is for cast iron diff covers and a rear diff slider that extends far enough to protect the input pinion, like the one offered by Next Venture. More info here: https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/how-are-you-protecting-diffs.66555/page-2

I also added rubber 'dampeners' to the cables. One near each end (orange arrows), made from 1" thick rubber, and attached with heavy duty Ty-Raps, and also where the cables contact the center section (green arrow):

If the coating that you are spraying it over is good, and if the surface is prepared properly, and if it could be applied properly, then you might get away with it in a salt-free environment like Melbourne. Unfortunately, the problem is that the existing paint on the drivetrain components and...

Yup, 17" KO3s (285/70R17) have also been spotted on the new Ranger Raptor.

Agreed. For my old muscle car, I started off using Cam Shield additive, but I quickly switched to Driven Racing Oil HR5 Hot Rod Oil. An oil 'designed' from the get-go with the proper additives is a better choice than worrying about any possible compatibility issues with an additive. Now, I'm...

Still doesn't explain why it shows both diffs locked and the sway bar disconnected at 68mph.

Maybe I missed it, but what's the meaning behind the picture showing no driver, 68 mph & 2k rpm on the main gauges, while the center screen shows front & rear axles locked as well as sway bar disconnected?

I really like the 53477 Hybrid Solutions Pro Graphene Flex Wax. I use it everywhere - on paint, plastic, rubber, glass. It seems a little expensive, but you put it on very sparingly, so a spray bottle lasts a loooong time...

Wow, this thread could go sideways real quick ... ... ,but, on a slightly related topic, I heard that Bud Light is no longer going to use the term "cans" when referring to those aluminum containers that it is packaged in.

When I first saw this, I was thinking why would you spend all that time and then use a 'shortcut' product for the last step(s). Then I checked out the 3D Speed you used and that is some neat stuff. It gets great reviews and you can't argue with your results - your JT really looks great! Nice...

I feel your pain. Isn't it sad that we've gotten to the point where we don't think the dealer is capable of trouble-shooting a simple issue like low power steering fluid.

The Owners Manual states to use "Electric Power Steering Pump Fluid". I can only assume that is is different from ATF or ATF+4, otherwise they would simply specify those fluids.:

Hahaha. I knew that would get you tap-a-tap-tapping on your keyboard with some overly verbose response, trying to somehow prove you are right and someone else's position can't possibly be correct if it contradicts yours.

If my diffs were that low, I would document it and immediately fill to the proper operating level. The Owners Manual is very clear that the proper oil level is 1/8" below the bottom of the fill port. DO NOT go by someone on the interweb posting that it is OK because of information "found...