For bare metals, yes, galvanic corrosion takes place at the joint. But, coatings play an important part in where the corrosion takes place. For example, if bare aluminum and bare steel are joined together and then the external surfaces are only locally painted at the interface, then the area...
I don't see the link to the "latest TSB". Can you post it again, or provide the TSB number?
I remember seeing a TSB with information on fixing the corrosion, but nothing about the redesigned hinges and new zinc shims you mention that the latest TSB covers. I'm really curious about these new...
If you want to look at it that way, then you need to look at the surface area exposure ratio of the dissimilar metals, which plays a lot into galvanic corrosion. There is a LOT of aluminum and very little steel. This doesn't support the assumption of galvanic corrosion. Don't read anything...
Yes, but I bought the gallon jug of Boeshield because I use it for other things as well.
It is much 'thinner' (less viscous) than the Amsoil product, and it takes longer to dry. This allows it to penetrate and creep into joints and hard-to-reach areas.
And, while I'm thinking about it, you need uncoated surfaces exposed to the electrolyte for galvanic corrosion to take place between dissimilar metals. Everything is coated with paint. The only area suspeptible is the hinge to door interface, which is primed but not coated with body paint, BUT...
Thanks for getting this info.
This is an interesting note:
"Once final torque is reached, manually advance the castle nut to the next castle opening for the cotter pin to be inserted, even if the hole is aligned when final torque is reached. "
I don't ever recall seeing a taper-fit castle nut...
I know exactly what you are talking about. I have had the same issue on a few occasions with my stock Mojave. I've noticed it when driving through standing water that is more than 3-4" deep at speeds of around 20-25mph or higher. In my case, I wasn't really doing it on purpose, but I was...
With the knuckles being cast iron on the Mojave versus aluminum on other 3.6 JTs, the ball joints are only part of the equation. I can't confirm where I found it, but I have 45 ft-lbs. written in my notes for the lower ball joints with the Mojave iron knuckles.
Call or stop by the Parts department at your local dealer. They can search inventory and tell you who actually has it in stock.
I've never had an issue calling an actual parts department at a dealership. Most of the online Mopar parts sites are associated with a dealership.
Also, Benny...
Interesting. Hopefully that was your problem. FWIW, I only use 120 in-lbs (10 ft-lbs) on the caps for both my JK and JT and I have never had any issues.
Unless I am missing something, then you should really put the correct (stock) length shocks on.
If you put longer shocks on with the factory suspension, then you are limiting uptravel and increasing downtravel. The need for longer bumpstops is to have the bumpstops limit uptravel before the...
Some people have put a piece of foam weatherstripping between the plastic sound bar and the roll bar to stop sound bar noise.
Another area are the plastic roll bar covers above each door. I removed them and added cloth Tesa tape to all the contact points and it got rid of a bunch of plasticy...
Well, I'm curious to see how this plays out. Most service advisors don't have much, if any, real knowledge about the actual parts being used. I would be (pleasantly) surprised if there was an actual Mopar replacement part that has an aluminum housing.
Bonus points if you can talk to the Tech...