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The Jeep procedure includes some steps that are not in the FCP video. I think it is just to make sure that there is no air in the system. See highlighted steps below.

Do you really want to trust what the 'parts guy' says? Your Owner's Manual states what fluid to use. I posted the page from the Mopar catalog showing the fluid. That's all you need to know.

The Mopar Lubricant & Chemical Catalog can be found here: https://www.moparrepairconnect.com/dA/1313be78c4/chemical-catalog.pdf

If it is suspension bushings, there isn't much that can be done as long as the hardware is torqued correctly. Take a look at them to make sure they are installed correctly and the rubber is not touching in areas where it is not supposed to. Other than that, check your exhaust hangers - all 3...

IMO, any time someone has been into the engine, it is best to change the oil sooner rather than later. You just don't know how well they cleaned out all the components that they swapped over onto the long block (timing cover, valve covers, oil pan). If it were me, I'd change the oil & filter...

Here is the Star Publication on the FAD bushing issue: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10175477-9999.pdf

More coats of paint isn't necessarily better. I find the Rustoleum spray paints to be more susceptible to chips if you put on too many coats. When I use the Rustoleum spray paints on bare metal, I do a coat of primer followed by a light coat of color and then a medium wet coat as the final coat.

Don't bother. That "high heat ceramic coating" is just a paint that can withstand very high temperature. I've used it before, and for non high temperature applications it is not as tough / durable as the regular enamel stuff.

Well, unless they actually DON'T have an inner sleeve. Checking out the JKS web site, they show this style of rear end links for some of their lift kits:

But you are assuming that "totally different" means that the design is the same as the factory end links. If the JKS end links were the same as factory, I doubt that Summitdan would state that they are "totally different". Just sayin'. I have no idea what the JKS links look like.

If you have a "totally different" end link, then the manufacturer should be specifying the correct installation torque.

The bushing has an inner steel sleeve. There is no 'squashing' the bushing.

Yeah, I saw those 'new' higher torques. I have an older copy of the AEV Spacer Lift instructions dated 02/04/21 that read: "Rear Sway Bar End Links: Upper Bolt 55 ft-lbs Lower Nut 37 ft-lbs" I also have a copy of the Mopar lift instructions date April 10, 2019 that shows 50 ft-lbs for the...

On stock 17" wheels, there is plenty of room for stick-on weights just inboard of the wheel spokes (factory stick-on weight location) and at the most inboard part of the wheel. Just take a peek with a flashlight and you'll see what I mean.

Isn't that a problem?

I can tell you that if you are regularly wheeling in the woods, the fenders, hood & A-pillars take the brunt of the damage (as will the roof if you have a hard top). These are all areas that these stickers don't cover.

Yes. This whole business of ' the lower offset is needed to clear the bigger shocks' is pure BS. Take a look at a stock Mojave and you will see plenty of clearance around the shocks. Anyhow, JT Rubicon wheels are the same specs as JL Rubicon wheels, as seen here on my Mojave: Not the greatest...

I'll add this info again: If it is a problem with the diff locker sensor, then you should get a "Service Axle Locker System" message on the dash and not simply the "SERV 4WD" light. You stated that it is the SERV 4WD light that comes on, so your problem is likely not the locker sensor. There...

The Rubicon has a Tru-Lok differential front & rear, not to be confused with a Trac-Lok. It is not a limited slip type differential and does not require the additive.

Almost forgot about this. Star case for wire chafing on 2020s leading to Serv 4WD light coming on: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10177485-9999.pdf