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Makes sense. I just read somewhere someone was having an issue and it turned out to be the sensor in the spare causing problems.

Maybe that is the problem???

I've read the spare tire (although not shown on the dash) is also read, and can be the culprit.

QC is not something Rusty is famous for.

Read the manual. pg 174

I would upgrade to Spicer ball joints at least. Do the RCV's or regular chromoly shafts and for sure do the FAD delete. That is the weak link in the front. Get one full length spare for passenger side after FAD delete. Rear chromoly are cheap insurance too. Carry the stockers as spares.

May be there to clear dirt out of the track..... or muffler bearing? ?

Nicely done sir. How did you get the wires through into the HW box? Looks a little tricky in that spot from underneath. I finally ordered a circuit breaker. Been running the compressor without it since I have the solenoid, but I decided on a little extra insurance.

A common misconception. It can be engaged in 4H.

? I think he meant reliable, but also boring.

Sting gray here also. I'll keep an eye out.

Finally found some tires in stock so they are on the way, along with wheels :rock:

As someone else mentioned did you try with a little bit of toe-in? Also, caster is what causes the wheels to return to center. Maybe another degree or so of caster will help?

Just got the replacement kit. Very quick ship.

Hey neighbor. What color is your Jeep?

Yes 30 spline. I was wonder if there would also be a Made in China comment lol. Good job. Yukon is sending a new kit directly to me.

Should easy to spot.

Understood. It has been my experience that sometimes changing one thing can lead to unexpected consequences with something else when it comes to steering and suspension geometry. It can be fickle on these types of suspensions.

Ok. Assuming no lift then. Hope you get it sorted out soon.