In JK's, I have run the full Skyjacker 3.5" and it was crap. I also ran the Rancho 2" and like it well enough but it did not have all that great of flex.
In past other Jeeps I have run OME, Rusty's, and Rough Country and Rock Krawler long arm. The RK flexed like a madman but its road manners...
AMP Power Steps. I had Quadratech's sliders but once the Gladiator got so tall, my wife could hardly get in.
The AMP's will take a serious beating too.
On the trucks, yes. I installed one on the RAM and the dealer had to flash to computer to activate the towing suite. This must be done in order to control it.
On the Gladiator no. It does not have the towing software in the infotainment (or at least mine didn't), but the controller works...
...not my experience. My Clayton 3.5" lift has heavier springs much, much more heavy duty control arms and Fox shocks. At least for me, my Glad pulls more stable and sure footed now on the lift and 37's than it did stock.
This is a short post with a quick impression. I installed the Clayton 3.5" Overland + lift kit with Fox 2.0s, 37" Nitto Recons and 5:13 gears last week. I came from stock with the 32" KM's, to 2.5" spacer level, and 35's, and now to this.
Lift - Rides slightly more firm than stock but much...
I ran them on a JKU with 3.25" lift and stock LCA's. It helped the handling for sure, but it is a band-aid solution in my opinion, but on the other hand, economic.
I am not discounting the OP's experience but that is not mine at all.
I have two TT's, a big bumper pull (7,500lbs duel axle) and a R-Pod (3,500lbs single axle). My Gladiator is setup with a brake controller and air bags for perspective. I also have a Blue Rhino anti-sway and weight...
Those stupid Z clips are terrible. The rest of it is top knotch and we love it. This first one went right in but the second one took me 10 minutes, 20 tries, and a lot of cursing. The whole time I was thinking why they didn't use a small pin with a keeper.
So stupid for such a great top.
...need more information on what you have to try and help you improve it...
Clayton control arms are 2nd to none in quality but may not be the culprit with only 2" of lift. Ride quality often comes from the shocks and tires amongst many other things. Before, I had a 2.5" spacer with stock...
I have a 35" spare, aired all the way up. 37's aired down end up being pretty close so on the trail, it isn't really an issue, but not going to leave it on there longer than needed. If I was in 2wd on the pavement, I would put the 35" on the front as I have limited slip. All but once I have...
5.13s were my choice. That data is not quite correct, and I am guessing it comes from that old Jeep chart that is floating around. With 37s at 70mph and the 8 speed you are looking at around 2100-2200 rpm. Out little V6's sweet spot is about 2,400 rpm on the highway to stay in gear and get...
Its hard to compare because the Gladiator is so much more of everything but each has its place. More comfort, room, size, towing, so they are almost apples to oranges. I still have the old TJ, but not much longer. My TJ has a long arm kit, 35's and gobs of mods but after a year with the JT...
For a while, I ran the Skyjacker 2.5" front spacer level kit with stock shocks and 35's. It worked great on the street and rode like stock. I do not like SJ but as far as spacer kits, their kit is my preference because of how it lifts the front and retains the stock shocks. The rear I left...
I ran that exact kit with 35's for a while and it worked great on the street, but not wheeling above dirt roads maybe. Those 37s will effectively relocate your rear fender flairs without extended bump stops though. My 35's did that...lol.