Bummer.
Suggestion I am sure you have already tried...is it indicating front vs rear and is the adapter on the right one? Or maybe both sensors have failed? Clearing all codes with an OBD tool and seeing if it pops again? The correction adapter could always be bad too?
Good luck!
AMW 4x4 quickly shipped me the OEM locker correction cable. $179+shipping to bypass a $5 sensor.
I thought it was strange when I pulled the locker plug and there was diff fluid in it, but maybe that's normal??
Plugged everything in and works as expected. The plug into the diff doesn't lock...
Thanks. I tried using Jscan to hide the lockers so at least it wouldn't be stuck trying to unlock and potentially burn out something, but that triggered the Serv 4wd light. That seemed worse than just blinking locker light. I'm going to roll with it and hope the zlocker adapter gets here...
The locker sensor issue struck today...3500 miles from home. What's the consensus on continuing to drive with it blinking? It seems like I can still lock and unlock in 4LO.
Ordered the z automotive solution and hoping they can get it to me this week before I head back across the country.
After a week of DD, this kit really does tighten things up. It is a solid upgrade.
One thing I noticed is the drag link prefers to be in a rotated forward position. This seems consistent with every video and snapshot where I can see any steering kit with these ends. It just looks odd...but...
Just wrapped the install. The hardest part was getting the old stuff out...particularly the drag link at the pitman arm. Had to get the ball joint puller from harbor freight to pop it. (Same thing JL Life YouTube used in their room steering video)
After seeing in person the tie rod ends and...
Latest addition was some rocker armor. A branch somehow wedged itself between my sliders and rocker panel and did some damage ($800 per body shop). For less than $250 I got the Poison Spyder rocker armor and just covered up the dent and now prevents future issues.
Also went ahead and bolted...
Finally pulled the trigger on the Rusty's Aluminum Steering Kit. At $750 shipped with all the steering stabilizer bracket pieces included - hard to beat. Strongly considered RPM and Doetsch - although Rusty's is a 1.8 inch tube vs a 2 - the TREs look identical and my hunch is commonly...
I'm getting some noise that I'm not sure is normal. When in 7th or 8th above 45 mph when I let off the gas it whines at me while it's in the lowest RPMs. Give it some gas and when it gets a few RPMs it sounds normal again. Only happens in higher gears - reminds me of riding in an old school...
Look forward to hearing about it. Looking at the pictures the bolt heads are hanging out there but the description says 'slide washers'. Hoping that means it has the recessed washers that sit at an angle that you see in other skids.
Looking at this skid: https://mountainoffroad.com/collections/gladiator/products/jeep-jt-oil-pan-transmission-skid-plate-3-6l
Anyone running it or anything else from this company?
A trusted Jeep shop told me Rusty's makes the ends for most of the aluminum kits you see out there. I think I am leaning that direction - their tube is a little smaller but I don't think I'd be giving up much strength.
If you watch install videos of each it does look like the ends are identical.
Looking at a few different setups and struggling to see differences other than price. I try to do it right instead of do it cheap, but is there really any difference between these kits besides the brand and decimal points of aluminum thickness?
RPM Steering $869.98 shipped...
Thanks! I saw in a video there might be a flat zirk on the CV but I wasn't able to see it at first glance. I also saw in one video a guy used a molly grease (which I have to use in my RCVs) and I also have a gun loaded with regular old grease. Sounds like the regular grease should be fine.
I'm struggling to find information on maintenance for the 1310 other than greasing at oil changes and after off road. I see the one grease zirk, is that it? Type of grease?