I’m a firm believer in running a good HT or AT tire for the little amount of wheelin I do compared with highway and byway paved/concrete roads I travel, especially HT tires no wider than 245/255-80-17 or 85-17 in heavy rain on the highway. I’m sick and tired of driving terrified on AT or...
The main two questions are what looks better and what functions best? I don’t care so much about looks as function. So I’ll go with no bigger than 255/85-17. With the stock alloy 17” wheels. Anything wider V will be too heavy and not expand its foot print as well, while causing hydroplaning in...
Of course not, unless the dealer wasn’t interested in taking the issue seriously and recording when it was found while under THEIR care/possession and responsibility! If they were concerned about remedying the damage/defect at a reasonable time and under conditions satisfactory to me? So there’s...
Folks using WDH, that still need a little help in the rear may have options you don’t realize. Like readjusting the angle of the ball hitch, that lowers the bars so to hook up tightly you need to use the trailer lift to lift all the way up to bring the bars closer to their perch. Or get heavier...
Size doesn’t matter as much as tire ratings. What the max load at max psi it will hold. So other than extra ground clearance and off road abilities that size will address, the axles are basically heavy duty half ton axles. So having heavy multiple ply heavy weight rated tires makes little sense...
Ok the way the headlights are designed to install is one way only, plus the plug for wiring is only one way, it’s impossible unless the unit is defective. But I suspect that the headlights are aimed incorrectly. Go on YouTube and look for your model Jeep headlight adjustment and follow the...
That’s a good point if one dies. But trailer tractors have used multiple 6v in series on one side, then parallel for 12v. Just to get all the amps possible, ever see a starter used to start a 900 ci diesel with 18:1 compression?
As far as batteries go, has anyone removed both main and aux batteries, then make room for two 6 volt batteries hooked up in series to make 12v, but have more amps available than the two original batteries together.
I would highly advise to leave well enough alone. Not sure how many miles, but original batteries at 4 years old, without any issues bat related or not, leave it be, just be ready to replace when the time comes.
My bad, that’s the first thing I would have thought if I hadn’t assumed it was a V6, not a turbo 4. Sounded like the Mack I drove in the 80’s that had the same thing happen on intercooler outlet
Here’s a picture of mine the day of delivery, two days after a hurricane with high winds and rain. I made the appointment to take delivery, telling them I had to inspect inside and clean please. I went over it with a good set of eyes.
Have you tried to reboot the UConnect system? Put ignition in acc without engine running. Then hold both big buttons on each side of base of touch screen for at least till it goes black. Then release both buttons and put foot on the brake and start. Good luck! I had a similar issue with mine and...
Thanks for clarifying that, I’m about to spring for new bulbs and not sure what to buy. I’ve used MORIMOTO in the past, but they’re over $200 now. The Sylvania Silver Star Ultra are about the same as those you posted, that I’ve also used with decent results, but are still not LED’s. Weird how...
Links work fine. But every item shown says it doesn’t fit 2024 Gladiator. I have the factory LED’s everywhere except the headlight and front DRL and turn/park lights.
I would get under there and clean the area with carburetor or brake cleaner. Then check closely again in a day or two, just to see if it is still leaking, or seeping out and exactly where.
Looking at just the picture it looks more like a body panel than the roof, but either way if that’s not some sort of defect I would sware I was looking at what an ice pick would do.