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I love watching his videos. He’s the reason I went with method 703 8.5 with a 38x 13.5 tire. Good video. Now I understand the block off plate with the fork

Adjustable control arms would do the trick. Then you can dial it in to the exact caster you want to run. As well as keeping your axle centered.

I haven’t really contacted Clayton. Th ShadowsPapa was very helpful before. I did think about reaching out to Clayton but I guess it’s not their problem. People are having the same issue with metal cloaks 3.5. They never had to worry about the pinion/ operating angle before. What is 24...

n you were rude in the last post and this one was telling me the fad has nothing to do with caster angle… no shit.

You are the same person that jumped to conclusions on my previous post. You give advice without knowing details and assume people don’t know shit. I thought it was u. You are consistent at least

Don’t quote me but from what read it’s the two piece axle. I don’t know exactly how it works. Have to do a little more research. Something about they added a fork that keeps it in the locked position. Not sure if it’s welded in or not. Maybe someone with a little more expertise will chime in.

Thanks for your knowledge! I think I’m gonna keep it simple and just add the FAD. Didn’t know it was. Possible when created this thread.

No. Driveshaft does not rotate with FAD unless in 4wd (connected)

U don’t get it…no fad means constantly rotating driveshaft. At 6 degree caster the operating angle of the driveshaft is at 11 degrees. Hence the vibration from the driveshaft. Running a 4.5 caster makes the he vibration more tolerable with an operating angle of 7! I posted the thread that...

I have adjustable control arms. I didn’t know you could add the fad with the computer programming and all. Now that I know I will definitely go that route

That’s an awesome idea. Didn’t know if it would work with the computer and the full time rock trac transfer case (24 rubicon x). Will that transfer case throw a wrench in it?

I do have adjustable control arms. It’s a Clayton 3.5 overland premium. I should not be closer to 6 caster. 24 and up do not have a FAD and I would be at a horrible operating angle for my front drive shaft at 6 degrees. I have a whole thread on this already...

Does anyone know a shop in the Chicagoland area that cuts and re welds diffs for caster? I have a 24 rubicon x with a 3.5 in lift, Adam’s front DS, and 5.13’s. Still have vibrations at 60 with a 4.5 caster. Already have a thread open for that if you’re curious but I’ve tried everything...

It is if you have a single u joint at the differential. Not as important with the Rzeppa joint (stock differential). But like why so serious posted… make sure there is no binding at full droop.

24 Rubicon x Method MR 703 17 x 8.5 Nitto trail grapplers 38 x 13.5 Clayton 3.5 overland plus Rock jock steering Falcon SP2 3.3 3.5-4.5” fast adjust shocks Falcon 2.1 stabilizer Smittybilt X20 gen 3 12k winch Oracle flush mount led Taillights Quake fender chop kit DRL

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That makes sense. I was gonna say you must have been in 4WD. This must be why I see so many gladiators running Dana 60’s with 3.5”+ lifts. High pinion Dana 60’s. Just don’t feel like spending 25k more. Btw that’s awesome that you’re in the forums and do such thorough testing. Shops...

Shouldn’t the 23 have a FAD? Are you talking about the front driveshaft?

Like last time… vibration came back. It’s definitely less. It’s still worth the sacrifices to steering running the lower caster for a better operating angle. I started digging into the 392 wrangler forums since they have been dealing with this issue longer. The true fix is getting a high...

So a little update and the true fix/ caster angle needed to run a 3.5” lift (with 1350 CV driveshaft) on 24 and up gladiators without driveline vibrations. Still was having slight vibrations once everything settled with an operating angle of 9.3° and caster of 5°. So went back to the...