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I also measured the drag link and track bar angles on my "no wobble" JK.... 7 degrees for the drag link and 6 degrees for the track bar (measured near the same spot, close to the axle mounts). I'll measure my other JK when my daughter is home from school and post the results.

Great question... if you end up getting it, I would love to know!

You guys have given me something to think about for sure. When my son goes back to college later this week, I think I'm going to swap out his track bar into my daughter's and see if anything changes. I looked into bushings, but it seems easier to just buy a new track bar instead (if that's the...

Yes, I am using the same tires: BFG KO2 33's with and without the spacers. Could be the bushing, but when I checked the track bar using all the "tricks" I know how, it appeared pretty solid.

Agreed... DW has been overused in general. I had it once on the hwy at 80MPH when I hit a GIANT pothole and it scared the sh*t out of me. All the ABS/traction/stability lights came on, lots of "dings" and I thought I was headed into the ditch. My daughter's is definitely DW. It will...

On the JK, no. I bought it used with a RoughCounty lift and this is my daughter's daily driver. I never liked the springs that came with the kit, and there is a specific construction area on her way to school where she gets death wobble every morning unless she drives at 20-30 MPH (the speed...

yessir

Not disputing anyone's claims on either side of this debate. Just wanted to add that after installing my MOPAR kit + Teraflex levelers in front I have zero issues with wobble (It's the AC part number, not AB). I also installed a Yeti XD adjustable track bar after a couple weeks and no issues...

The biggest issue on the lower-quality plates is the thickness. Too thin and you'll flex the winch plate which can damage the bumper, frame, winch, etc. Potentially it could completely break which would be no fun at all. You will definitely need one made for the OEM steel bumper and you may...

I have a 6MT Rubicon, so my experience may be different than others, and as you mentioned this topic is like a religious war or vax/antivax levels of craziness ? Coming from a 6MT Rubicon JL, I am in no hurry to re-gear. It's a -bit- more sluggish in general and 3rd gear especially is not as...

In my very recent experience the answer is yes (keep the leveling kit). I did the MOPAR kit just last week and also added the Teraflex 1.5" front levels. Measuring from the rock rails, I am within 1/4" front to back. If I took out the pucks I'd definitely have a rake I would not want...

100% agree... I just did the MOPAR kit on my stock rubi. Definitely got slightly more than 2" of lift over the stock Rubi suspension.

THAT is the trick: do the LCA's first with tires still on the ground. Not sure what I did to get my axle so far out of position, but before disconnecting the UCAs I was an inch short. I could not get the axle to budge. Broke a pry bar and smacked my forehead so hard on the frame that I was...

I haven't chalk tested, but I'm running my 37" BFG KO2's at 30psi at the moment

Yeah, those LCA's are a b*tch.... Out of the 7-ish hour install, 2 of them were figuring out how to get them in. Ended up removing the upper CA's and completely disconnecting the track bar. I could have just as easily done an axle swap.

I do not have a diesel, but I just did the MOPAR lift and my take-offs were gray/black just like yours. The ones in the kit were both black and look pretty much the same side by side Also, the drivers side pic of the spring isolator orientation in the instructions (#23 and #24) does NOT match...

Good to know... I have those, but wasn't sure how much they applied to the JT.

Where does the JL or JT use CV joints? (honest question, I thought everything was U-joint)

Ah! good point Do you subscribe to tech authority, or did you buy the online service manuals to be able to see the wiring diagrams?

Or, use a relay that only taps into one side and use the output to power both halos. A little more wiring (and skill).