Odd, I have the same bracket (installed at Mule) and the fit was just fine when I removed it to paint it to match my truck. I can snap some pics if it matters
Just found this thread! It's fun to see another ACCC build thread. I share your frustration with the rear door gas strut design - the...
For what it's worth... I have one. It's generic, it can mount on either side if you want it to. On the driver side, the nose bumps into the asymmetric corner of the Gladiator bed to clear the fuel filler, and kicks the nose inward a few inches. So the Gladiator-specific kit they sell is just...
Local OHV park has an obstacle course. I needed to get full flexed to check clearances after installing the lift this spring and 37s this summer (Yoko X-ATs from the crazy walmart deal -thank you forum - on Icon Rebound Pros). That was a while ago; driveway checks with jacks and no springs...
Needed to test all the clearances after installing 37s, lift, adjustable control arms etc. Slight rub on the front bumper wings and the rear wheel wells at full stuff, so it was helpful. And man, it's impossible to steer while full flexed like this (bone stock steering).
And for lulz I had to...
The standard coruplast that's widely available is 4mm / 0.157" thick. The channels are so small, I'd think they'd just clog up before long with dust and crud.
If you really want airflow under the panel for max output and longevity, source 12mm or 1/2" coruplast from a local sign shop. That...
Is there an 80W panel for a Rubicon hood? The flat-hood units I've seen are 85 W - Rubicon only 30 W, or 50 W, or 35 W. You can do almost as well at peak with a generic panel on top of the dashboard (though obviously the hood will have much better average exposure), or use a folding panel in...
I installed rear hotheads in place without removing the top (no choice - I have a camper installed that prevents removing the hardtop). I didn’t bother sanding anything, as I added some Kilmat sound deadening too. I just scrubbed the Kilmat foil surface with isopropyl and stuck them on. VHB tape...
On the Ecodiesel, the aux battery is directly under the main battery. No need to mess with the wheel well or liners or fusebox, just pull out the main battery and there it is.
another option. Just a simple adapter tube.
(This beats the stock cone funnel by fully enclosing the nozzle. If you've tried actually using the cone funnel, you'll find it hard to pour fuel slow enough that it doesn't splash directly back at you and all over the side of the truck. Usually...
I have the equivalent Metalcloak rear track bar with a bend. The MC has a very minimal bend, and it fits easily with my 37s. Clayton’s bend is more pronounced so definitely will fit. Like they say, even some 38s probably work.
Looking at the gas snorkel with the optional A-pillar mount kit - this is about the only photo of it I can find - AEV only makes this accessory part for their gas passenger-side snorkel, not the driver-side diesel snorkel. There are more details in page 8-11 of the gas snorkel install...
The Jeep inverter is pretty lousy. Only 400W max (not much tbh) and the waveform is so dirty that many AC powered things won’t accept it (for instance my Anker fridge does, my Ecoflow battery unit does not). Many people here have done a DIY install with much higher quality inverters, using only...
You might also try the big thread if you haven’t found it yet:
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/alu-cab-canopy-camper-roll-call.52174/
Suspension upgrade a must: yes IMHO. I don’t think the Mojave shocks are going to handle the increased weight tons better than my Rubicon...
I can tell you my Clayton 3.5" HD springs gave me net +2.5" lift in the rear with an Alu-Cab Canopy Camper install (around +600 lbs over empty when measured). This is perfect for me, but as it's the heaviest spring they offer for this application, sounds like not enough for the OP