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Looks to be. Cant make out the name on the control arm in the rear. Coilover is black with a reddish cap. Almost want to say RockKrawler but no idea on the specs. I guess with the 40”s you don’t have to worry so much about the length/breakover. Probably helps massively with approach.

I can recommend the Thor’s Lightning. It’s a pretty good setup.

That is a new vehicle price though. I got my used Jeep with a “wench” and a bunch of other goodies for way less than half of that. Still feels like a win to me. :like:

No but it’s a pretty good idea. Providing you can get one. Probably all caught up in the Straight of Hummus for now.

Agree. On my Bauer impact I remove on setting 3 but install on setting 1 after hand snugging. Then torque to 130ft/lbs. I have one lug bolt on my driver’s rear that is slightly sticky. I try to use power tools as little as possible on pretty much anything if it can be done by hand. Absolutely...

I think it’s the same model as the Napa one as well. Shop around and compare specs. Might save you a couple bucks.

So many lewd improper comments I could make on this picture but you’re all already thinking them so I’ll refrain. :angel:

I used spray adhesive due to my install circumstances and it has not held up. I’ll have to find some higher heat carpet tape and do some touch up. I used 3M adhesive that was suggested by the producers of the melamine foam I installed along with this. Not a huge deal but when the edges start...

California Edumication system at its greatest. Of course I hope whoever bought it insisted on ALL the add ons.

Have you run a scan tool on it yet? If you’re getting a malfunction you should get some sort of code id imagine. Even if it’s intermittent. I’d run by an auto parts store if you don’t have a scanner and have it checked out. Quick, easy, and most importantly FREE!!! :like:

Is the bottom double walled as well? Could this box be hard mounted on something like a fridge slide? Just asking for plotting purposes. :devil:

Yep. There’s a tab in there designed to lock In place during a collision. If it gets unseated it won’t release the belt. You know like when on an extreme angle and the seat belts lock in? Same concept. It’s probably plastic in this day and age. Just needs to be reset into its channel. Takes...

You’ll have to open the seatbelt feeder itself. Clean it out and make sure there’s no gremlin goo in there. I’ve had this on other vehicles in the past and that’s really the only fix if you can’t use brute force to knock it loose. Basically the mechanism in there that locks the seatbelt is...

For some it probably is. It’s an already built rig right out of the box that really doesn’t need much done and can hit the trail right off the lot. For me? No. I want to select my own bits and gadgets I put into MY Jeep. Will it be better? Probably not but I’ll know exactly what’s on there and...

Whoa!! How far forward did they push that front axle?! :surprised:

This is the only thing that keeps me from buying hard panels for there. I know me and my damage rate. I’d be damaged for sure. :CWL:

Chains + Closet = Problem Solved. :angel:

Makin me jealous in the best way!! I really need to get some skids on and go get twisted!!

Sounds like you’re on the right track with all that. Worse goes to worst all its going to do is tell you you have turn signals out on the dash because the amperage isn’t enough to be read. It’s annoying but just a quick click of “ok” at startup. Does it to me all the time with button turns on...

Well done and I really hope this works for you. Because it’s exactly what I want to do in the future. :CWL: Seriouser note, I always like to have a 12V barrel open on trips. You just never know what’s going to come along and having a standard type outlet for “whatever” is always a good thing.