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the W number is still 75 so no difference in cold flowing ability.

No, the rear still takes more than the front, but the rear in the JL only takes about 1.5 quarts, the JK took almost 2.5 quarts. The front rarely works, so getting it hot doesn't really matter.

Use the 75w140... there isn't much fluid capacity in the rear.

I still hate needle fittings, but I hear you on multiple setups for grease guns.

The debate on which weight oil to use will rage on for pages. I regeared to 5.13 3 years ago, and have just been purchasing the valvoline flex pouch 75-140 for front and rear.. I've replaced it 3 times since and haven't had any issues. I don't think there is enough friction modifier in the...

100% Keep them greased and they should last a long time.

I have video of me going down that exact step! Fun place, a few of the trails are still quad/sxs only, but it has a few excellent views.

Synergys are pretty easy to spot, they have a cut bevel with a needle zerk on the top of the uppers and lowers. Dynatracs have a snap ring around the top of the upper ball joint. Baller Joints have a giant nut on the upper to keep the knuckle from separating from the inner c if you blow up a...

post a pic, there are only 3 decent ones (and the mopar performance ones that aren't any better than the stock ones.

With no fad the front driveshaft spins all the time, like a JK Because the front shaft is spinning at highway speeds, you have to balance enough caster for good road manners with low driveshaft angles to minimize vibrations. The higher you lift, the worse the problem gets.

not critical at all. Your info won't always help him find bad ball joints. My helpful statement was bad ball joints don't alway show up with the test you gave him to try. Drink some coffee and relax.

you're lucky point being, it can pass a wiggle test and still be 100% wasted and affect drivability especially at high speed on bad pavement.

Sadly the wiggle test rarely works on JL/JTs. It did on the JKs. I was chasing a wobble (not dw) and replaced track bar, drag link and both uppers and lowers in the front, and it still did it. Passed all pry testing with zero felt movement. I bit the bullet knowing they were already on...

The lights will go off when you go above 36psi. That never settled/constant adjustment with the steering is probably a sign of low caster. The Mopar part numbers you referenced are exactly a 1/4" longer than the stock ones, and they look factory and have factory attachment points for brake...

Benny, do you show any non-tinted windows now? I haven't seen any in the past couple years on new ones.

It isn't like a dual stabilizer in the traditional sense. I have had one on mine for 3 or 4 years and have't had any issues at all.

There are only 3. Non-tinted base top, tinted base top and the premium twill which comes tinted. The base tops are light gray on the bottom side, the premium twill is dark and looks more like cloth than woven/textured vinyl.

paging @AlphaWolf to the red phone.

Does the TSB tell them to replace something?