It IS just bolted there but to a massive bit of plate so that the winch centerline is aligned with the crossmember centerline. It, at a glance, looks janky AF mostly because I almost never wash the jeep, haven't polished/waxed it in years and all the plastics are aging. It's gritty-chic, I've...
The winch is mounted to a 7/16 plate which is cross bolted through the rear crossmember. the winch is in compression and to displace would need to crush the crossmember in two axis thus pulling the frame rails together. How hard will this 9k winch be pulling?
It is not, I assure you, sharing...
The interesting reason I wanted to add it is it can extend your reach anchor wise, I can now tie off to a tree or rock or other vehicle a considerable distance from you who's stuck. I chock my wheels to pull you and then we just pull, reset, pull, reset and inchworm you to safety. It also...
It's more primatitive utilitarian Expedition of The Americas style installation right now. Working on a trim skirt and roller fairlead integration at the moment. But it is bolted right to the rear crossmember using the bolts that hold the hitch on. I'd love to pass the cable through the hitch...
So... I recently wandered down this rabbit hole and crunched a lot of numbers on the topic and here's a shocker.
From a power density perspective, the pentastar is king in power HP/displacement and HP/mass. And what's worse, you can do a bastardized Brake Mean Effective Power calculation and...
Having picked up, scraped up and mopped up a few people who felt likewise, seatbelts do in fact save lives.
Or to put it another way, the only apsect of seatbelts in a jeep that I have disabled or bypassed is the chime... yes I know it is not currently being used, but I am also not in motion...
Ahem...
that is in that jurisdiction where an engineered GVWR upgrade is a permissible act that is blessed by the local licensing and registration body and involves invocating the engineers.
here in 'murika it is not a commonly possible act outside of some arcane situations. the pedders kit...
Just as an aside here, I drive a manual and as it often happens, I am shifting up or down as another fellow traveler approaches and it can be hard to steer, shift and wave. The best I can manage often is a solem nod of the head in respect.
Sigh...
Look, it's cool. I get it. But what you need to remember is it's not just you, there are plenty of people on the forum who have never owned any real 4wd before, never really thought about all the math and science and physics behind going and playing in the dirt. My attempt to educate...
So...
The "ratio" being discussed is the ratio of input revolution of the gear set to output revolutions.
A high ratio of inputs to outputs has less inputs for one output versus a low ration which has more. We tend to to describe "high" gears as being numerically smaller or lower and vice...
A. Higher ratio is numerically lower, 2.08 axles would give screaming high speed and damn near dead rpm at highway cruise.
B. I'll assume you are the guy all kitted for overland but the truck is always spotless and shiny.
They don't want you hanging a wheel in space, cranking it up and then slamming traction.
The flip side to all of this programing magic is they are also likely using the transmission as a retarder so the excess torque capacity is coming in handy there as well.
Think about doing a steep grade...
The big driver is torque and shock loading. I'm fairly certain the bean counters sat down with legal and then invited the 392 team into the meeting whereupon everyone agreed that most 392s are not going to be used right or well and the 4:1 low range represented a "liability" when people opt to...
Well since you sound like the right kind of fellow, there is as we know a difference between steady state operation and acceleration.
At a steady state highway cruise of about 65mph the drivetrain only needs a forward energy input of say in 50hp to maintain steady state. This is Fermi math so...
I feel that you all might be missing the point I was getting at.
The lower the ratio (numerically larger difference) the more relative acceleration and throttle responce, aka felt torque, you will have.
Flipped the other way, you will have less felt power and increased fuel economy which can...
Yes 400w which as stated is good for light duty work, some phones or tool batteries or keeping an iPad going but really, what is 400w good for work wise? I can run a lot of LED ribbon lights but the inefficiencies mount quick.
Fwiw, the factory inverters are adequate for a phone or laptop but not much else. I had a horrific day once where the 110v ac signal was so sketchy that the cordeless tool charger started telling me NOPE, not gonna charge.
Factory outlet integration is great but the inverters aren't worth the...