where are you powering the winch?

[ShadowsPapa]

My problem with the manual cut off is that I need to open the hood. I want power control from in the cab. But the way I use mine, I’m often not on flat ground.

And that's why I went solenoid - my experience pulling another driver out from a snowy ditch while my truck was on the very edge of the road, on some exposed gravel and I was struggling to stand up and walk around my truck to open the hood. At least getting to his car was just deep down snow, but where my truck was, it was slick ice and as far off the road as I could get for safety (and traction so my truck wouldn't be pulled into that ditch instead of his car coming out!)

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[cranbiz]

I run a 500A continuous duty solenoid on mine. It is mounted next to the main battery and controlled from one of my aux switches.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I run a 500A continuous duty solenoid on mine. It is mounted next to the main battery and controlled from one of my aux switches.

Do you have actual physical dimensions of that, including the studs, etc.?
if i change mine in the future, or if I blow mine out from abuse, that one is an option, as long as I could make it fit roughly where my current Warn solenoid is.
So far the Warn solenoid hasn't even gotten very warm with use.
Always looking for information, options and so on

 

[chorky]

with the manual cut off is that I need to open the hood. I want power control from in the cab. But the way I use mine, I’m often not on

I second the solenoid option. Haven't had to do any hard winch pulls, but this setup works well. Currently operated by aux switch 3 for the front winch, and aux switch 4 for the rear.

 

[cranbiz]

Do you have actual physical dimensions of that, including the studs, etc.?
if i change mine in the future, or if I blow mine out from abuse, that one is an option, as long as I could make it fit roughly where my current Warn solenoid is.
So far the Warn solenoid hasn't even gotten very warm with use.
Always looking for information, options and so on

I'll get them for you.
It's this solenoid.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085RCCHDM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I'll get them for you.
It's this solenoid.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085RCCHDM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Battery isolator - that helps explain the rating.

 

[Kevlarr]

How about this? Instead of a fuse?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

How about this? Instead of a fuse?

300 ain't gonna cut it for many winches. Not sure that one has beefy enough terminals for a heavy winch power cable.

A cutoff switch is still the best. Why mess with a breaker or fuse?

People seem to be trying to find ways to avoid a good heavy cutoff switch.
A fuse - blows and you are done in the middle of your pull.
Breaker kicks out, you wait for it to cool, reset it and hope it holds again. Breakers, once hot, often don't handle what they used to. I've replaced breakers because they actually handled less current once tripped a time or two. 300 amps is too small anyway.

Just put in a switch.
Fuses definitely no.
breakers - why? Almost as bad as a fuse. In some cases of grounded or shorted power, the draw isn't enough to blow a fuse or kick a breaker but can still spark and cause problems.

cutoff switch takes care of the concern about fire and short hazards from a frontal impact.
It's really that simple. NO power at all to the front when not using the winch.
Power to the winch without fear of a fuse or breaker going while using the winch.

 

[Lost1wing]

How about this? Instead of a fuse?

I use a 60amp breaker for my aux switches. Smaller wires are not a problem. I'm not seeing this style breaker working as a lasting solution for a winch. I use a 400amp fusible link and a 400 amp solenoid. I think the fuse is a good idea only in case where the solenoid fails and shorts out.

The cutoff switch is a good option. Just turn it on before hitting the trail or before going out on a recovery. If the switch is off when you need it, just open the hood and accept that it isn't your day.

 

[Pilsner]

The winch, any winch, wouldn't be hot all the time. The only time high amp current is flowing it is when the controller closes the contacts on the relay.

The controller completes either the forward or reverse rotation relay circuits. Harold has a secondary relay circuit that controls overall power supply so a problem with a positive cable won't lead to grounding out or a voltage leak that kills the battery. Basically a collection of ford type starter relays and easily home built.

Now a word on duty cycle. Im a hydro winch guy and the upsides are quiet, waterproof and 100% duty cycle. But only when the pump is driven by the engine. Electric winches typically are advised a 50% duty cycle, 30 seconds on/30 rest to cool. They can also be used with the engine off, but not for long.

A good example of the difference would be a steep decent that puts you on the front bumper and perhaps grounded on the rear. Can't crawl you way out and you need to shut the engine down quick to avoid running dry and hydrolocking at the same time.

I'm stuck getting tug or using a manual winch while the electric has hopefully enough reserve capacity in the battery to pull you enough to land a wheel or two and still start. If you're expecting to be the guy everyone calls I'd invest in a good dual battery setup to have starting power when you need it and duplex amp when its tug time.

I may have once buried a vehicle in a creek deep enough that my stuff floated out of the bed. Had to shut it down and hope the battery had enough to get me out. It made it...

 

[ACAD_Cowboy]

I may have once buried a vehicle in a creek deep enough that my stuff floated out of the bed. Had to shut it down and hope the battery had enough to get me out. It made it...

So on that topic, I recently added a 9k electric winch to the rear up under the where the muffler should be for nearly this exact reason.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I may have once buried a vehicle in a creek deep enough that my stuff floated out of the bed. Had to shut it down and hope the battery had enough to get me out. It made it...

"may have" as in - you are admitting nothing?

So on that topic, I recently added a 9k electric winch to the rear up under the where the muffler should be for nearly this exact reason.

I get it that sometimes you get into things that you find just aren't "crossable" and the smartest path is that path that led you there, only backwards.

That would be an interesting installation.

 

[ACAD_Cowboy]

I get it that sometimes you get into things that you find just aren't "crossable" and the smartest path is that path that led you there, only backwards.

That would be an interesting installation.

It's more primatitive utilitarian Expedition of The Americas style installation right now. Working on a trim skirt and roller fairlead integration at the moment. But it is bolted right to the rear crossmember using the bolts that hold the hitch on. I'd love to pass the cable through the hitch but side loading would destroy it despite looking cool.

 

[ACAD_Cowboy]

I get it that sometimes you get into things that you find just aren't "crossable" and the smartest path is that path that led you there, only backwards.

The interesting reason I wanted to add it is it can extend your reach anchor wise, I can now tie off to a tree or rock or other vehicle a considerable distance from you who's stuck. I chock my wheels to pull you and then we just pull, reset, pull, reset and inchworm you to safety. It also means I can play silly games and pull from both ends like drag thr nose one way and the tail the other etc.

 

[chorky]

It's more primatitive utilitarian Expedition of The Americas style installation right now. Working on a trim skirt and roller fairlead integration at the moment. But it is bolted right to the rear crossmember using the bolts that hold the hitch on. I'd love to pass the cable through the hitch but side loading would destroy it despite looking cool.

road armor makes a nice rear winch bumper.
Superwinch 10k

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