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I would not buy a rebuilt engine from Jasper. I've seen way too many of them come misassembled, gaskets missing, piston rings missing or installed upside down, used bearings, nothing torqued to spec. On several occasions I've seen these engines not last 5 minutes, or even a minute, before grenading.

There's no fixing that where it will look good. The aluminum is oxidizing in to powder under the paint. If you remove the paint you're going to see deep pitting. Removing enough material to get down to clean aluminum will look like crap. I would live with it until the paint starts falling off.

You do you, my man. If it works for you. I've been yanking around RV's for 20 years. Been my experience that something 25-30 feet long is 1/2 ton territory if you don't want white knuckle experiences. And longer than 30' in a bumper pull is best suited to a 3/4 ton. Which is why I'm pulling my...

Weight is only one factor when it comes to towing a camper. Length is a factor most over look since you are essentially towing a huge sail. And wind doesn't care. I wouldn't go over 23-24'. Can you? Yes, on paper, it will work. Gladiator just doesn't have the weight or wheelbase to deal with...

Or Shittybilt

Salt water/air is a nightmare. Did you hose it out after every fishing trip? Sand and salty ass fishing gear will tear a vehicle up. I wouldn't warranty that either. Take it to a line-x dealer and let them sand it down and coat it. That's your only option.

The Gladiator is good now that I put a Bilstein stabilizer on it. Drives better than new. The steering has been squirrely in the Gladiator since the day we bought it new. I always thought something was wrong. Very twitchy and zero resistance. Now it's nice and firm. I can actually take my hands...

Honestly, we don't need the Gladiator. We don't need another truck. Just something that will tow a bass boat. So, basically any mid to large size SUV will do the job. We want something a bit more fun, better fuel economy and more power. Jaguar F-Pace, Mercedes GLE, Range Rover Sport, Lincoln...

Ball joints on my 2012 JKR are still OEM. That thing has been lifted on 35's since 2013 and wheeled a lot. I just redid the suspension on it, those joints are still good. Was for sure thinking they'd be ragged by now. Nope. Almost 140k on that thing too.

I do not, but I tow a lot. So I'll just comment on the obvious. 1. Depends on how much lift and what size tires you are considering. You'll have to factor in whether your WDH can accommodate enough drop to compensate for the extra height to keep the trailer level. 2. Rake. Most lifts remove...

You can feel a worn ball joint by lifting the wheel off the ground by the axle an inch or two and putting a pry bar under the tire and prying up. If there is play upward the joints are toast. Can also push and pull on the top and bottom of the tire to feel for play. Not my first rodeo building...

Just shook down the front end myself. Ball joints are good, I don't see any play in the track bar, drag link or tie rod. All the bolts are tight, but who knows if they weren't before the dealer touched it. Had my wife rocking the wheel back and forth looking for play, saw none. Going to get it...

Apparently. A bone stock Gladiator with 36k miles has a worn out stabilizer. Think it's time to trade this thing in.

I know. My '12 JKR with full MetalCloak game changer and HD steering drives perfectly fine without a stabilizer. Everything is tight, aligned and proper geometry.

36,700

Update: Dealer says the steering stabilizer failed. I'm finding it hard to believe that a failed stabilizer would cause death wobble.

As the title says. I have a 100% stock 2021 Sport S max tow. Been experiencing death wobble at highway speeds. Tires are in good condition, balanced and showing no uneven wear. Had the dealer do an alignment which was within spec and needed no adjustment. Nothing is loose up front. Has the...

Like the title says I'm looking for an OEM rear bumper with the holes for park sense. Just the entire cover will work, but the support included would be nice. I'm in the Charlotte area, but willing to drive a couple hours in any direction.

Looks good to me. Oil isn't much of an issue. Especially fresh oil. Easily removed with degreaser and water. I bet the tech forgot to put the o-ring on the filter cap after removing the old one.

Whatever kit Autozone lends out.