Eh…wasn’t great. Looked great. Beam was decent but not as refined. These were spots I got for free. Swapped out to gravity 6 LEDs in wide driving pattern. Much more useful for my purposes. Moved a spot beam on the center mount and changed the Gravity locations.
I’d ask them how they’re shipped and then explain how you received yours. That way they can go to the freight company if they changed it. They’ll also likely provide a good discount on them. That chip looks a lot like what happened to mine on a good hit off a moving rock.
I totally agree on the videos! It’s not hard for them to do it. As for the shipping, I think the freight company took them off the pallet to save floor space. I deal with this a little on my industry. The manufacturer pays for floor space of the pallet and weight. Then the shipping company takes...
Dumb question I’m sure. But gotta ask. You followed the points of contact they have in order and didn’t tighten down as you went? I’m just trying to make sense of how the factory tolerance got so far off.
Sounds like they may have sent you the wrong model? Mine was almost spot on. Nothing that a ratchet strap couldn’t line up. the powder coat damage is surprising. My set came on its own pallet, in boxes with injection molded foam. Do you have a picture of yours still on the pallet?
I love em! Took them to Uwharrie and got some use out of them. They are very solid and the even with some good contact on rocks, the powder coating held up pretty good.
As for install, yeah. They kind of crapped the bed there. Their is no template. I called and asked them and they said that...
I have 37's on my Rubicon and the best thing I have done so far was to upgrade my steering. I went with Synergy draglink and tie rod. I already had a Yeti Track Bar but I may take it off and swap that to Synergy as well. I know this will bring some strong opinions on here....but I am not crazy...
Hahaha! Same thing happened to me. I got the front and rear liners and didn't know that the rear liners would come with all the rivnuts and black clips. Oh well, plenty of extras!
If you are planning on doing a fender split/chop, I would recommend these from American Adventure Labs: https://americanadventurelab.com/product/jeep-jl-fender-retention-hardware/
Once you remove the inner liner during the split, they are not as rigid. These help hold the fender onto the body...
Thanks! I am running a "budget" (read as Chinese) awning I got from Amazon. I love it so far. The quality is good and the extra walls it came with are easily converted to more cover with a few collapsible tarp poles. Here are some links:
Awning...
Thanks! We still use a ground tent and some REI Air Mattresses (they are the best we've used). We typically bring our dog and two young boys so it works better for us this way.
We also don't have a lot of areas in the North East that you could set up and stay at for a few days without wanting...
Do what I did. Go to their site, hit “contact me” and give them your height above bed rails for the tonneau and the width of the fold. They’ll check. I have the undercover ultra - something. They’re mostly all the same. Heck, give me some pics of your bed cover with a tape measure for width and...
Thanks! It’s the 18” high Max Modular Rack (gladiator specific one) from @KB Voodoo
here’s a link:https://www.max-modular.com/jeep-gladiator-bed-racks-1/max-modular-18-high-jt-aluminum-bed-rack
I like it because I could keep my trifold tonneau cover. If you get the tonneau brackets for the...
Went from stock this to this after a few years. Added a Synergy TR and DL and a JK Falcon Stabilizer (my brother was taking off his JKU), and some flush taillights to the build. Switched to 37’s from 35’s because I didn’t heed the advice of the other folks that said, “If you’re even thinking...
I went with the RTIC Hard case: https://rticoutdoors.com/Hard-Case?size=43in&color=Black
I drilled three holes in the case and put rivnuts through them. Then I bought some 1/8" thick plastic that I cut down to size for the inside of the case to act as load distribution so the plastic would not...
It will still work. You’d just have to share the holes. Here’s their IOM. You have to tuck it under some points anyway. Or you just have em welded on by a shop. Doubt you’d be able to find a bolt on, frame mounted slider that wouldn’t have to tie into the bottom frame holes. Emphasis on frame...