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I would guess from your description that the main battery is going south. You can have it load tested, but if it’s more than three years old get a new one, leave the aux battery disconnected and the fuse removed. Should cure all ills.

We have five ‘21 JTs in Jeep tour service, all with the Mopar 2” / Fox suspensions. The issues we have had have been front link failures (factory has upgraded them), broken rear link mounts at the frame, a weakness of the suspension design, not a fault of the lift. To compensate we added...

Since new my ‘23 JT with 18k miles did this once. I hit the start button and it started to run on maybe two cylinders. As a former tech I knew it was low fuel pressure so out of curiosity I let it keep going. Gradually one cylinder at a time fired up. I presume the residual pressure valve in the...

I’m 80.5 yo, have been wrenching either professionally or as a hobbyist since the 1960s. These days laying under my JK on the garage floor to simply yank and reinstall the rear driveshaft so I can service the center ball on its double cardan u-joint leads to a few mutters of “ why the fork are...

I use a thin motorcycle ratchet strap

This is an important point. If there are off-centered front wheels, that is, they aren't running perfectly centered there's really nothing else to look at until that is remedied.

Good feedback here so I won’t repeat. Just wanted to add that the stick shocks aren’t all that great and I’ve noticed on mine if the pressures are low the shocks don’t do the best job of rebound control. I’m getting it occasionally on my Willys that’s just on 285’s (33s) if the pressures are...

It depends upon your intended use of the rig. If it's primarily a pavement pounder the K03's area good pick, but as you probably know they will run small, more like a 35.5" tire. Alos thin sidewalls that won't handle rocks well. (I have K02s on my Willys daily driver that will likely never see...

Amazing the spin. The early JK front housings bent like Twizzlers. There is a weak spot at the FAD, that’s it. Find another shop.

I tested the charging recommendation last night. I put the charger positive on the positive battery clamp, put the charger negative on the unpainted stud at the body ground. Let it charge overnight. Battery reading before was 12.0v. State of charge this AM was 12.7v. Beforehand driving charge...

I had a moment this AM to check for an “unpainted” stud under the hood. Sure enough, where the ground cables mount to body there is a separate, unpainted stud available for the charger ground. I’ve run my conventional charger on the JT, but not knowing the IBS needs, did so conventionally, using...

When charging the battery Jeep wants the positive charger cable attached to the battery, but the negative charger cable attached either to an unpainted body stud, or the engine block. I’ve read this same instruction set before regarding Ford’s version of the IBS.

Get the Mopar bearing. Not a place to cheap out.

Proving once again the automotive service industry can spin virtually anything in order to scam a buck. Cheezis K Reist!

Thanks for the tip on the drag link. The drag link & tie rods on these things are pretty cheezy to save weight, plus the aluminum knuckles don't help in dampening vibrations. The steering dampeners on them are probably not the best and I'm not the biggest fan of the shocks. I'm getting it...

I did the Advance Adapters T-case cable on my JK. First time I took it on a trail, brand new Jeep, the damn clip broke at the transfer case.

Jeep does it again. The JK had a very stiff t-case shifter. Jeep came through with a new design for JL/JT that improved on that characteristic. It’s even STIFFER than JK. Brilliant!!!!! 😂

Yes and if it’s a cylinder head or block crack or just gasket you can relatively quickly pinpoint the issue. Just examining the spark plug tips for example. If the all look exactly the same it tells you the issue isn’t likely an internal coolant leak. Etc. None of this requires 18.5 hours.

Well it’s pretty simple. Diagnosing this issue doesn’t take 18.5 hours! Simple external tests by someone competent should be able to pin it down. System pressure test, leak down test, etc. If it’s “missing on all cylinders” then it’s unlikely it’s head gasket, which would only affect one bank of...

OP, have you checked it to see if the coolant level is low? Is it emitting white smoke when running? If the tech "smells coolant", did he check to see if the oil cooler housing is leaking? If the seals on the oil filter/cooler assembly are leaking coolant may accumulate in the valley between the...