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I was up there a few months ago with my JK. There are now a lot of No Trespassing signs on the go-arounds, meaning that in some areas you have no choice but to take some fairly challenging lines. Many of the obstacles are becoming really rutted-out due to people just spinning until they either...

Part of the issue is that anyone who finds a legal unmaintained road isn't too forthcoming about letting the world know about it.

If sitting for the full 11 months, I would: 1) Do an oil change just before leaving. On your last drive, make sure to get it fully up to operating temperature. 2) Fill the gas tank and add stabilizer. 3) Over-inflate the tires by about 10%, although theoretically you can go up to the max...

The 255/85R17 Baja Boss AT is not an actual 10-ply tire. It has a 10 Ply Rating, but this only means that it has the equivalent strength to the 'old' 10-ply construction tires. The reality is that a modern Load Range E tire will usually only have 3 (or sometimes 4) ply construction. The...

On the Mickey Thompson web site, the Baja Boss MT shows a Q speed rating, which is 99mph (only exception is the 42x13.5x17 which is P = 93mph).

I would be worried about water getting in there and then freezing, causing the piece to pop out. If it were me, I'd make sure it's clean & dry and then apply a low viscosity liquid CA adhesive, allowing it to 'wick' into the crack.

Have you seen this thread?: https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/so-this-just-happened-in-my-parking-lot.44655/

Take a look at SEM Trim Black: https://semproducts.com/product/trim-black/black

I've got this old thing... It may be sporting wheel covers (which were actually an extra-cost option), but it also had some cool boxes checked off when my Dad special ordered it back in 68, including: L30 327ci/275hp, M20 4-speed, F41 Suspension, 12-bolt posi, dual exhaust, Special...

You really don't want to put a coating with any significant thickness on that surface. You need to maintain a nice metal-to-metal contact in order to maintain lug nut torque and minimize brake squeal. So, you could use a very light coat of paint, but chances are that the rust will come back...

If you are talking about the tube that is used on the Mopar CAI, then you'll also need to top of the air box since it has a larger opening. Unfortunately, the parts aren't available individually: https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/mopar-cai-individual-parts.46667/

First thing to do before taking the console apart is to check that the cables are connected at the rear e-brake actuators, and that the cable housings are still connected to the clips on the axle housing.

^^ That's the one shown on store.mopar.com for the LED fogs & steel bumper:

Yes, perfectly.

Don't overlook all available discounts. For example, the company I work for requires us to take a Defensive Driving course. Geico accepted my 'diploma' and gives me a discount for it. Don't overlook other things like good student discount as well. Another big savings for me was the "away...

^^ Yeah, if I'm up to full operating temperature, I'm at WOT every now & then.

Just a FYI, the second quote appears to come from a person who claims to have been a Pentastar design engineer, screen name OIL_UDDER on BITOG. The discussion on BITOG was about a pre-PUG 3.6. You can find the quote here...

^^ Until it comes time to actually fix it. IMO, you don't want to take the word of a dealer on anything.

That is not likely what the guarantee verbiage states. You need to look at the guarantee terms & conditions to see if they only cover rust perforation and if they cover aluminum panel corrosion. Who backs the guarantee? Also, how does their undercoating affect the factory corrosion warranty...

No issues, like Tom stated. Just remember, in 2WD your FAD (front axle disconnect) de-couples the RH side inner axle shaft from the RH outer axle shaft (which is connected to the wheel hub) and the driveshaft remains stationary. So, the LH axle shaft is turning forward and the RH inner axle...