Thanks! I'm not greatly impressed with their communications either. PCM is shipping now, so we'll see how it performs. Glad I got DEF and EGR off options. Thanks for the post!
I did, sorry for not following up. They have my PCM now, waiting to hear from them.
Here are my questions and EOC's reply:
TO EOC:
What do these options mean?
1 - Egr on or off. I would like to reduce soot contaminating the oil, but I don't want to make any modifications.
2 - Def fluid can be...
The EOC website also lists an option for EGR off, but I don't know if any other mods are needed. I asked all these questions by email but no reply yet. No luck getting them on the phone. Thx!
I'm getting the EOC stage 1 tune. There are three options for the tune and one for DEF on/off. I'm looking for feedback on your experience with an EOC stage 1 tune. Which one did you get, how does it perform, is fuel consumption better or worse, would you do it again, etc. Your feedback is...
The instructions say to use a stack of shims that is 1.5mm thicker than the space between mount halves to ensure the load of the canopy is directed into the load bearing rails, as opposed to lying
directly on the bed walls. AVO said to use two or three less shims than what it would take to fill...
I'm looking at a Renogy controller that handles input to 50v. I like the Bluetooth feature for monitoring and selectable output power.
The solarhawk panel comes with butyl rubber adhesive on the entire panel. It's not coming off willingly. And it's really the only good option for the iKamper.
I've looked at dozens of buck regulators, but I need one that is fully encased, not the open design like the item above. Thanks for the reply. Any other ideas out there?
I really can't believe this happened and I am so depressed... Just finished installing the SolarHawk panel on my iKamper. Now I find out the Renogy DCC50 max input voltage (VOC) is 25v and the solar panel produces 28v. Are there any options to step down the panel's output? Any other...
Just the stage 1 tune. The bracket has two screws deep down between the battery and PCM. I could get the screws out, but getting them back in will be a challenge. Waiting for the PCM to return before tackling.
*Corrected - I got a new tie rod, not sway bar. The front sway bar is original, links are new Clayton's. I also have an Adams drive shaft. I'm on 35 M/T's, which are worn and about to be replaced. Maybe the worn tires are the culprit and the new tighter steering parts are magnifying the...
Just got new RPM 2.5 ton drag link & tie rod, Teraflex ball joints, Falcon steering stabilizer, and Clayton 2.5" Overland lift. Steering had some play before, but I thought the new steering parts would tighten it up. I still have a good bit of drift. And a new thing started, when making a...
I didn't think four nuts could be so difficult to remove. The top two, no problem. How do you get to the bottom two? I'm sure I'll have to remove some other components, but thought I would ask for help before just ripping stuff out. I can't get a swivel and socket on the bottom passenger...
So far I agree with the comments. It "should" have a positive rake. The Mopar lift is a true 2" and the Clayton 2.5 is really 3 - 3.5". The front height increased an expected 1.5" but the rear went down. The springs are the correct ones. I'm going to the shop on Monday to check it out...
First, the shop has called Clayton and I'm talking to James with Clayton on this forum. I thought I'd see if anyone has experienced this or if anyone has any feedback. I swapped the 2" Mopar lift for the Clayton 2.5" Overland Diesel lift (plus control arms, stabilizer, RPM Steering). These...
I got confirmation from EOC that no flash is required after pump replacement. And they emphasized it has been confirmed with jeep. But when you have the dealer clone the spare, they should also flash any updates needed to both units. Those who report a flash with the new pump were just getting...