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If you were to drive one of your 3rd gen ecodiesels daily. How often would you be plugging in for battery maintenance.

Is that all necessary if you’re driving your vehicle every day? I have a 25-45 minute commute daily that spans on local roads and highways. My batteries just turned 2 and I’m starting to have these issues. It’s parked in a heated garage every night.

that is what I suspected. I just removed both batteries to confirm what date they had. Both are factory Mopar agm batteries dated January of 24 so they are 2 years old. I decided to leave the aux out rape up both lead and pull the fuse. Just took the truck for a ride and I did not see the water...

I’ve heard the aux battery can cause electrical gremlins so that is the rabbit hole I’m going down. I’ve used the valve to drain the filter and inspected what came out and it was perfect. I run additive every fill up. This is the only thing that is really making any sense. Did you need a scanner...

both batteries were replaced at the dealership In December of 24. system still does not work right for stop start. now this is happening with the water in fuel light. I replace my fuel filter every other oil change. I change my oil every 4k miles. I do My best to keep things as they should be.

Thank you. I’ll give it a shot I guess. Seen people remove the battery and take the positive wire and run it back to the main battery and just tape the negative.

What guide did you use for the eco diesel aux battery delete specifically? Did you run the aux battery positive cable to the main battery? I’m having a similar issue. Remote start doesn’t work but I climb in and push the button it fires up but then displays a water in fuel light. The light goes...

Fantastic job. I’ll look to do it in the future. Ever figure out why you had the code after you finished the install?

Thanks for the info. Decided to try the shorty jackers first since I can return them free if I don’t care for them. If that’s the case then I’ll make the jump and do the slammers.

thank you. I’ll probably give them a shot. Just still not sure about a permanent modification that can’t be easily undone.

Any one runnning the Seat jackers/slammers in North NJ I could try before I order. Really not sure which to purchase. I’m 6’3” but my inseam length is 32”. According to their website I should purchase the shortys but at the same time I think the slammers would be better. Not to excited to cut...

Did you go the route of the banks throttle plate delete while you have a stage 2 tune to fix that issue?

I have just the towing tune and I installed my ecu and ran it with the dpf unplugged for about a month. No issues. Never did floor it or drive it hard though, didn’t want to hurt the turbo with all the back pressure and added power. I had about 1.5 month gap between receiving my ecu and exhaust.

The work getting to it isn’t a problem. I just didn’t want to remove the factory one and then say it doesn’t fit. It was a while I’m there project. I was planning on removing the egr coolers at the same time as replacing the manifold. Have everything apart once and address it all.

Wound up going the route of reaching out to EOC asking if their tune would be compatible and this is what I received from them. Seems it’s not even worth it for the performance gains.

I see, I’ll be honest, I don’t have the tools at hand to cut a block off for the low pressure side. That is the only reason why I was looking at the no eco plate kit. I also like the idea of removing the metal and rubber coolant line that feeds the high pressure egr cooler from the block. No eco...

Thank for a few extra picture. The big help was the one showing your routing on the rear of the drivers head. Does the hose on the 2nd gen kit get used? I was looking at the no eco kit because I like the finish on his block off plates. Just trying to get and idea an idea on the differences...

Any chance you have some better pictures of the low pressure side removed with the coolant lines. Bit confused how the reducer is addressing 4 separate coolant lines that go into the low pressure cooler. Looking to use a second gen kit and go this route.

I’m planning on keeping all my factory parts so I can always put everything back to stock completely. This is the route I would be going for the throttle plate.

I don’t believe the swirl valves are active. To my understanding they are there along with the butterfly valve in the intake to help the egr system. I have EOC’s stage 2 currently. I’ll experiment in a few days. I’m going to unplug the swirl valve and throttle body and see if I get a CEL.