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Heads up guys these have not surprisingly gone on backorder, We should know in about a week what the ETA's will be.
Thanks,
- Benny
Thanks,
- Benny
Sponsored
Looks like way too much work for me. Using a throwaway electric screwdriver, net aggregate taking my doors off weekly every summer for years, will still be less total time than doing that once for all four doors.This guy shows how he installed the OEM redesigned door checks on his older model Gladiator. He even lists part numbers.
Enjoy!
I did mostly the same. Worx rechargeable and it come with a bunch of bits. I added the torx bits needed for top removal, doors, tonneau, sunrider, etc. It lives under the back seat and is nice to have in a pinch. Also usb rechargeable so can just plug into the truck. It's only a straight one though, not pistol style which i think id prefer.Well, I ordered the $70 brackets and some "bullet" hinge alignment pins, and then went out to take the doors off. But for the first time, I didn't use a ratchet and instead a cheapo electric screwdriver. Wow! lol. It took seconds (3?) each bolt-- same for putting my rear tube doors on-- and I rolled my eyes at myself for ever thinking this was a problem needing solving. Now, it's not as fast as my old lift-in/out cloth doors, but it had me entirely shift the scale from "pins = easy on/off but also = loose doors in a rollover" and "cutting off the factory detent arm pin and $70 brackets" --> I'd rather do nothing at all and just use the electric screwdriver. I ran in and cancelled my order for the pins and the brackets. Lazy? Yes. Feel safer? Yes. Happy about it? Yes! Win win. I'm only sharing here in case someone else comes around and hasn't tried the stupid electric screwdriver method (easier than a cordess drill / driver, and you don't mind leaving it around). Mine rotates into a pistol shape or a long stick shape, but I'm sure whatever you have would be fine so long as it's not too fat to preclude getting close to the hinge/door body.