Ask your junkyard axle swap questions

[Demlockian]

Got stopped by a dust storm… why did Uncle Sam put me in yet another desert.

Unexpected error… the Artec passenger side upper control arm bracket didn’t key properly onto the truss (manufacturer error?) and its nearly binding at ride height with the supplied Johnny Joint. I’ll have to plasma it off, grind back down, and weld another bracket on later.

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[Demlockian]

Heard a lot of “forum people” and “YouTubers” claim that the new M210/M220 AdvenTek Dana 44s are basically comparable to a Dana 60 and are a safe option for heavy wheeling on 37s and even stretching to 40s.

Well, here’s a quick snapshot of the axle shafts and u-joints. Looks comparable to me…?

 

[Demlockian]

So… when swapping from the factory Ford bolt pattern to 8x6.5, no factory rotor will fit. To correct this, you have to buy Ford rotors and use a drill press to increase hole size to 13/16.

And we don’t talk about naked Barbie’s…

 

[WhiteWillys24]

Hello all! I am diving into the world of superduty axle swaps and have a few questions when it comes to the ABS. My intention is to do 05+ front dana 60 and sterling rear axle. I assume the tone rings front and back are the same so it would just be a matter of mounting the ABS sensors.

I see several options for tone rings, my understanding is these are only needed if using dana 60 and 14 bolt combo.

Help me understand what is needed to make the ABS work for the ford axle combo. TIA

 

[Demlockian]

I have no experience with ABS on the Sterling and haven’t seen a single person use that axle successfully yet on a JL/JT.

For the front Dana 60 (05+) you will have to use Rock Solid Motorsports tone rings. I have heard both good and bad with them, which is why I went with 99-04 and upgraded the entire thing.

Also, the brake lines on the front 99-04 D60 are direct fit; no adapters or fussing around.

 

[WhiteWillys24]

Is there a reason that people aren’t using the sterling? Looks like there is a truss made for it. I have heard that there is mechanical interference on the jk’s. But haven’t heard anything conclusive for the Gladiators yet.

In my simple head I’m thinking use axles from the same truck (should have the same abs tone rings front and rear) therefore I should be able to just mount the sensors and program the computer to the right tooth count.

Someone enlighten me if my logic is incorrect

 

[Demlockian]

The computer isn’t programmed for the tooth count, but rather you match what the computer is looking for.

The 14 bolt is a great axle and easily converted to run the same bolt pattern/width. It’s the easiest beefy solution.

 

[Jteakus]

What is the solution for speed sensors using a 14 bolt rear?

 

[Demlockian]

The first step is to have the tone rings machined and pressed onto the rear hubs (any machine shop can do this for about an hour labor). Once the axle is reassembled you would use Artec's kit to mount the factory sensors.

JK, JL, & JT 1 Ton 14 Bolt 52 Tooth Tone Ring– Artec Industries

I couldn't find the brackets... but if you call Artec they should be able to help you out. I was the first one to get the new design from them and it appears to still not be on the website.

 

[WhiteWillys24]

You will have to install tone rings on the hubs and sensor brackets. Like @Demlockian said.

My whole thought process with using a matching set of super duty axles is so that I minimize custom parts should I ever have a failure.

Pleasing the jeep abs system sounds like a finicky task. I need to see if JScan has the option to change the tone rings tooth count for the JL/JT platform. I know the JK guys are able to do it.

 

[Demlockian]

There is nothing JScan can do about ABS tooth count, unfortunately.

With a Dana 60 (99-04 or 05+) and GM 14 bolt rear, nothing is explicitly custom. The 14 bolt uses off the shelf parts from your local auto store.

If using the 14 bolt, you can get either 8x170 hubs or bolt pattern adapters (second option can match the 05+ width @ 72 inches).

This is why I went with a 99-04 ultimately. Its strength is identical to the 05+ thanks to upgrading to Currie unit bearings, chromoly shafts, and full truss. The ONLY advantage to the 05+ is thicker housing (who’s breaking a trussed housing? Nobody), and more separation on ball joints (again, not much better). Downside to 05+? It’s wider, leading to more tire poke and loss of turn radius.

 

[Jteakus]

How do you determine the year model of a Super Duty Dana 60 if it has been removed from the truck?

 

[jeepkevin]

Look at the knuckles. Some have windows in the bottom closer to the lower ball joint. 05-10, no window, stronger, smaller callipers. 11 and up to 23ish, window, bigger calipers. I have built 3 sets so far, 1 set under my Jeep, 2 others for friends. Half dozen companies do weld on brackets kits, everything is figured out. Just have to pay for parts. I prefer Barnes 4x4.

If you pay $1000 for your junk yard axles, figure $6000 for everything needed new, gears, brackets, shafts, brakes, bearings, brake lines, abs sensors, and such, minus cost of lockers of choice. Now add drives shafts with yokes for t-case, appx $1500 and wheels and your back driving.

 

[Demlockian]

You don't really need new axle shafts on the 05+ (99-04 is a different story). I know several buggies, not Jeeps, that run factory shafts on 40–42-inch tires without any issues (replace u-joints though). A Jeep would see much less stress than a buggy bouncing around on rocks.

 

[jeepkevin]

Early year front shafts are 1480 joints, newer are 1550, same as a F550. Summit or East Coast sells complete inner/outer/U joint front shafts assembled for $200 a side. Its a quick/cheap upgrade for a junk yard axle, plus the take outs are now trail spares.

05-15 Ford F250/350 Left Axle Assembly 10013781 - 1550 Ujoint

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