Ball Joint Delete Feedback

[HooliganActual]

I’ve started to develop a little DW that I need to investigate. LOL…I know, I know…DW can be caused by a lot of things, hence the investigation I need to do (just got back from doing 300+ miles of the 675 mile Arizona Peace Trail).

But since the sun still isn’t fully up and it’s still a bit chilly, I figured I’d solicit feedback from anyone who has used a ball joint delete set like these:
https://www.tmrcustoms.com/products/jeep-jl-jt-2018-current-balljoint-delete-kit-1

In the eventuality that my investigation indicates bad ball joints, I would really like to improve upon the Gladiator’s poor knuckle/ball joint design.

Anyone running a ball joint delete? Any comments, quips, quotes, satires or humorous vignettes?

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[whysoserious]

I have never used ball joint deletes. But, looks very similar to this...

Jeep (2018-Current) – American Iron Offroad

And they also sell these...

BJDS Rebuild Kit – American Iron Offroad

And the rebuild kit says...

"Expected lifespan of spherical bearings is estimated at 2 years depending on tire size, use, etc.

I would think a high quality ball joint with a zerk fitting would be more practical in the long run.

 

[HooliganActual]

I have never used ball joint deletes. But, looks very similar to this...

Jeep (2018-Current) – American Iron Offroad

And they also sell these...

BJDS Rebuild Kit – American Iron Offroad

And the rebuild kit says...

"Expected lifespan of spherical bearings is estimated at 2 years depending on tire size, use, etc.

I would think a high quality ball joint with a zerk fitting would be more practical in the long run.

Yeah, there’s certainly a trade off. It comes down to introducing roller bearings where none currently exist and having the ball joints “oppose” each other and stop the knuckle “falling off” if the shaft breaks. It’s what happened to that JT in Mickey’s Hot Tub on the Trailmater channel.

I’m not wheeling it as aggressively (stupidly) as that guy was, that’s what my two JKUR’s are for. However, I overland with my JTR and I’m thinking I could still limp home with a broken axle shaft with the ball joint delete. I’m not married to it but wondered if anyone has been running them, broke an axle, and still carried on, for example.

 

[Zachanadandy]

A broken axle doesn't guarantee the joint will knock the ball joint out. Haven't broken a shaft on a JL or JT before but the design is no different than the d30 or 44 from the xj, tj, zj, wj days and we've broken many an axle over the years and never had one knock out a ball joint. When it breaks you pull the broken bits out and stuff a rag in the tube to try and keep the fluid in and wheel on. Of course if you break a shaft at high wheel speed other things can quickly become involved, but I can't imagine the ball joint deletes would be immune to damage. Even if the impact of a broken joint didn't knock the knuckle off I can't imagine the roller bearings surviving for instance.

 

[HooliganActual]

A broken axle doesn't guarantee the joint will knock the ball joint out. Haven't broken a shaft on a JL or JT before but the design is no different than the d30 or 44 from the xj, tj, zj, wj days and we've broken many an axle over the years and never had one knock out a ball joint. When it breaks you pull the broken bits out and stuff a rag in the tube to try and keep the fluid in and wheel on. Of course if you break a shaft at high wheel speed other things can quickly become involved, but I can't imagine the ball joint deletes would be immune to damage. Even if the impact of a broken joint didn't knock the knuckle off I can't imagine the roller bearings surviving for instance.

Thanks. I’ve been there and done the things you’ve said.

However, different from the way the JKU’s are built, one ball joint pressed in from the top and one from the bottom, the JT has both pressed in from the top which, in the right conditions, can allow them to both be knocked upwards out of their press fittings, allowing the knuckle to literally come off. The deletes actually have a means of preventing this.

Maybe I misspoke about the “broken shaft” being the culprit. It can apparently be a couple of scenarios. I won’t claim to be an expert in the dynamics but I believe this is at biggest risk if you blow up a front wheel Ujoint. It is that connection (and the press fit of the ball joints) which keeps things held together. Apparently, so it goes, when you break the Ujoint or their yokes, and get enough of the right forces in play, the bottom ball joint has a tendency to pop up and out of its spot in the knuckle and then the top one will follow, leaving the wheel/hub dangling.

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