Installed Synergy ball joints transformed the ride

[Mtpisgah]

Did you make any changes in order to accommodate the 37’s or are you just going to run it as is?

Well, I have had a 3” lift on it for about two years. I currently have the following parts on order (I think everything is now at the shop except the axle shafts):

RCV front axles shafts
Eaton e locker
Apex aluminum toe rod and drag link
Off road only sway loc
Tom Woolds front drove shaft (already have a rear).

All of it has been on order since before I went to 37s. I have been waiting for everything to come in so I can make on trip to the shop. I will have my mechanic check the ball joints (and everything else) and replace as needed.

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[Mays9185]

So will bad ball joints cause camber to be out of specs?

 

[Benbean66]

So will bad ball joints cause camber to be out of specs?

Could definitely be a possibility

 

[Mays9185]

I was curious because my camber is .04 driver -1.3 on passenger side

 

[Benbean66]

I was curious because my camber is .04 driver -1.3 on passenger side

Are you meaning to say Caster, or Camber? Camber is not adjustable on these solid axle trucks. If your Camber is out of spec, there's most likely something wrong. Caster is the amount in which the rear is rocked forward or back on its axis thru center of the axle shaft. Camber is what kids are doing to their import cars nowadays...

 

[Mays9185]

Camber, I read when ball joints go bad it can make your camber be out of spec. Because knuckle can move side to side

 

[WILDHOBO]

Camber, I read when ball joints go bad it can make your camber be out of spec. Because knuckle can move side to side

I’d agree for sure. They’d need to be pretty bad though.

 

[OHJeeper]

Almost 30k miles and getting the clunking noise when hitting a pot hole etc. Didn't feel planted on the highway if the surface was uneven.

Came with the mopar lift and 35s. Changed to milestar 38s around 12k. Updated to Clayton overland lift at 20k and went to 36 inch nittos.

So it's always been lifted and at some point started getting the clunky sound.

No more noise after the ball joint upgrade. The stock balljoints flop back and forth and you can create the sound by hand.

I cut a couple open didn't see anything bad going on. You can barely move the synergy joints by hand and no wsy to create the lunk...at least not now.

Other than the crazy rental press, everything went good.

Hey, @Oak - which part number did you get? They have 2 and provide no information on which one, just that it's up to the installer to pick. I have factory ball joints on a Rubicon. Thanks!

 

[Oak]

Hey, @Oak - which part number did you get? They have 2 and provide no information on which one, just that it's up to the installer to pick. I have factory ball joints on a Rubicon. Thanks!

Sorry not sure on the part number. I don't remember there being an option.

 

[OHJeeper]

Sorry not sure on the part number. I don't remember there being an option.

Do you remember if yours were knurled or smooth (the part that presses into the C bores)?

This part:

Thanks!

 

[mx5red]

Do you remember if yours were knurled or smooth (the part that presses into the C bores)?

This part:

Thanks!

I’m sure there are various opinions on this - but I remember Jim from Dynatrac saying in an old video he didn’t recommend knurled ball joints because it’ll ream out the joint so future replacements will be loose?‍

 

[OHJeeper]

I’m sure there are various opinions on this - but I remember Jim from Dynatrac saying in an old video he didn’t recommend knurled ball joints because it’ll ream out the joint so future replacements will be loose?‍

That makes sense - the synergy site says this:

• Knurled ball joints are required when replacing ball joints that have enlarged the axle end forging bores

So, I was assuming that replacing the factory ball joints would not require the knurled ones, but I wasn't 100% sure and was hoping Oak knew for certain which ones he used.

 

[GRDIESEL]

Almost 30k miles and getting the clunking noise when hitting a pot hole etc. Didn't feel planted on the highway if the surface was uneven.

Came with the mopar lift and 35s. Changed to milestar 38s around 12k. Updated to Clayton overland lift at 20k and went to 36 inch nittos.

So it's always been lifted and at some point started getting the clunky sound.

No more noise after the ball joint upgrade. The stock balljoints flop back and forth and you can create the sound by hand.

I cut a couple open didn't see anything bad going on. You can barely move the synergy joints by hand and no wsy to create the lunk...at least not now.

Other than the crazy rental press, everything went good.

I just replaced mine last week at 40k and they were exactly the same as yours. It felt like the only resistance was the rubber boot on both the uppers and lowers.

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