Can’t set caster any higher?

[gearhead22]

Full disclosure this is from when I installed my 3.5 MC GC lift a few weeks ago but it’s something I’ve been questioning since.

when I was going to set my caster I left the jeep on the ground with the tires on, placed a jack under the pinion, disconnected the 2 UCA’s at the axle, set the caster via an angle finder on spreader holes of the axle, and adjusted the UCA’s to line up with the axle bolt holes.

What I noticed was I could let the jack down completely, where it would even come off the pinion, and the caster would only max at 6 degrees (90 degrees as measured via the angle finder). 6 was the target so I adjusted and locked everything in. It was confirmed via an alignment rack that I’m at 6 degrees driver and 6.4 passenger side.

But why couldn’t I get anymore caster out of it? Was something binding preventing the axle from rotating back any further? My thought was the track bar may have been preventing it at the axle side mount since it could only rotate so far before you would need to rotate the bushing or the driveshaft (stock for now) was preventing the axle from rotating any further but 6 degrees caster is only 0 pinion angle so i would think it should be able to have a little more to it. In all the videos and discussion ive looked at regarding how to set your own caster no one mentions the need for disconnecting the track bar or having an aftermarket driveshaft to achieve a high reading.

It’s not really a big deal as 6 degrees is enough, but I’m curious as to why I couldn’t get more out of it as I’ve seen people running much higher. Maybe some day I’ll want to try adding more, but I’m not sure I can?

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[Janster]

I’m here for the comments & learning the whole ‘coil spring thing’…..Just curious…

Back in my younger years, with a YJ….. Dana 44 swap / Leaf spring suspension.
Because of where the leaf spring pads were located on the tube (the one side was part of the diff housing/cast), we had to have the knuckles cut, rotated, & rewelded for proper overall geometry.

 

[Supazuk]

Do you have any pics of your set up currios to see were the threads landed on Control arms (Game changer has adjustable Uppers and Lowers right?)

Curious why you would want more caster, as 6* is optimal

 

[Charles 236]

I’m here for the comments & learning the whole ‘coil spring thing’…..Just curious…

Back in my younger years, with a YJ….. Dana 44 swap / Leaf spring suspension.
Because of where the leaf spring pads were located on the tube (the one side was part of the diff housing/cast), we had to have the knuckles cut, rotated, & rewelded for proper overall geometry.

Back when I raced leaf spring cars (Mopars, of course), I used spring seat wedges to get a pinion nose down attitude. This helped traction at the cost of driveline smoothness. But smoothness wasn't an issue for running a 1/4 mile and running about 118 mph, traction was the key, especially with a car which needed to appear "stock". This applied to the resr, but spring seat shims should work equally well on the front.

 

[gearhead22]

Do you have any pics of your set up currios to see were the threads landed on Control arms (Game changer has adjustable Uppers and Lowers right?)

Curious why you would want more caster, as 6* is optimal

I thought about trying it. Some like 5,6 or even 7 degrees or more. Just wondered why I couldn’t get anymore out of it if I wanted to. No photos but yes they’re adjustable.

I also thought about trying some control arm drop brackets. Which I believe all of them add caster to some extent.

 

[Janster]

Back when I raced leaf spring cars (Mopars, of course), I used spring seat wedges to get a pinion nose down attitude. This helped traction at the cost of driveline smoothness. But smoothness wasn't an issue for running a 1/4 mile and running about 118 mph, traction was the key, especially with a car which needed to appear "stock". This applied to the resr, but spring seat shims should work equally well on the front.

Sure…. they work great for the rear when you need to pitch the pinion without having to cut/re-weld spring perches. I had 2.5 degree shims in the rear of my Tacoma. For the YJ - the rear spring perches were cut & rewelded.

It’s not the same for the front……. Installing shims in the front also rotates the knuckles which changes the position of the steering geometry & alignment.

 

[Charles 236]

Makes sense. Back then I wheeled a Dodge Power Wagon, with straight axles and leaf springs, and with full time four wheel drive. I never had any reason to experiment with the suspension on it, it worked very well and went places no pickup had any right to go.

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