"Drag link adjustment kit"?

[The Yeti]

So my 21' 80th anniversary is at the dealer for 1 of 9 remaining free oil changes and because I had my first experience with what I'm assuming was the "death wobble" they are inspecting that. I bought this thing last July used with low mileage (37.000 kms) and currently only have 47,000 kms (Yes, Canadian unit) haven't put too many miles on it. Apparently it has an aftermarket lift they are telling me. I bought it assuming it was stock with an extra warranty that came with it from the precious owner. Purchased from a different dealer put of tow I should specify. Anyway got a call saying out of alignment, drag link shows wear and aftermarket "lift" would not have helped. I can't disagree I guess but I assumed it was stock,doesn't seem lifted to me although this is my first Jeep. Anyway what would a drag link adjustment kit consist of? And am I right in assuming it would be pretty generic? Don't know what kind of lift, but I assume a cheap spacer lift of some sort, no idea I would have to look but again forst Jeep it will be hard for me to determine stock vs aftermarketsuslensuon parts. I'm used to Chevy HD IFS.

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[Deadpool392]

The stock draglink is adjustable, without knowing what size/type of lift is (or isn’t) on your Jeep it will be hard to offer any ideas. If the dealership is sure it is the draglink, I would put a new one one, but I would also do the tie rod and ball joints at the same time (personally).

 

[The Yeti]

For what it's worth here's the work order and quote, drag link is not included in the quote and they said it won't be covered under the warranty because the lift would've helped cause the issue...
(Apparently I can't attached files right now, I'll get this figured out and upload them eventually along with some suspension pics maybe)

 

[Vtur]

You can buy just the outer ball joint end (pitman arm) from the dealer ($80) if that's what worn out. It's pretty common, my went out at 10k miles. But if it's on the knuckle side then you must replace the whole draglink. Recommend going aftermarket.

 

[The Yeti]

I'll have to wait and fire up the Ol laptop later for any pics I guess but I just looked up the part # they quoted for the "drag link adjuster kit" and it is just caster alignment bolts for adjusting "factory or aftermarket lift". Instructions show to elongate the hole on the bracket either frontward or rearwards depending on if you want the pinion adjusted up or down to get your desired adjustment.

 

[The Yeti]

You can buy just the outer ball joint end (pitman arm) from the dealer ($80) if that's what worn out. It's pretty common, my went out at 10k miles. But if it's on the knuckle side then you must replace the whole draglink. Recommend going aftermarket.

I'm sure up here in Canada the price doubles on the part. But that was my next question should I be replacing with stock or is there a recomended aftermarket option? I'm pretty sure I'm going to end up doing the repairs whatever they end up being and leaving the alignment to them or whoever it might be.

 

[Vtur]

Aftermarket comes with beefier joints. You can align it yourself. Plenty info in the forum.

 

[The Yeti]

Align it myself caster too? I'll have to follow up and look in to that. I mean I've only even dealt with setting the tow then getting caster/camber close for the drive to the alignment shop on previous vehicles.

You can buy just the outer ball joint end (pitman arm) from the dealer ($80) if that's what worn out. It's pretty common, my went out at 10k miles. But if it's on the knuckle side then you must replace the whole draglink. Recommend going aftermarket.

So, (remember I'm new to this type of suspension/Jeeps in general, famous words when a stupid questions coming) the drag link itself does not need replaced when it's "worm out"? It's as simple as replacing the outter joint, similar to an outter tie rod on a Chevy truck?
I was picturing a solid rod (the one on an angle) with him type ends and the ends being worn out, then assumed when they said "worn and needs replaced" I would have to buy an entire unit. So I can just by an end replace it, align it and call it a day or....?

 

[DarthAWM]

Align it myself caster too? I'll have to follow up and look in to that. I mean I've only even dealt with setting the tow then getting caster/camber close for the drive to the alignment shop on previous vehicles.


So, (remember I'm new to this type of suspension/Jeeps in general, famous words when a stupid questions coming) the drag link itself does not need replaced when it's "worm out"? It's as simple as replacing the outter joint, similar to an outter tie rod on a Chevy truck?
I was picturing a solid rod (the one on an angle) with him type ends and the ends being worn out, then assumed when they said "worn and needs replaced" I would have to buy an entire unit. So I can just by an end replace it, align it and call it a day or....?

You most certainly can just replace just then ends, provided the threads and clamping mechanism aren't damaged, of course you can use this as an opportunity to buy a bigger, cooler, shinier replacement

 

[The Yeti]

So true.... the plan was to buy it and drive it and actually have a warranty with an extra 5 years (or something like that) Then I bought a winch and needed a bumper to mount it on, the needed rims so I could use the BFG 285's I already had. Then I find out I actually have a "lift" (I wouldn't call a spacer a real lift personally but...) now the choice is here... Although I still don't want to out a bunch of money in to this unit, but...

 

[The Yeti]

So, just because I'd rather go outside while the sun shines instead of firing up the laptop. I decided to go have a look for myself. Correct me if I'm not using the correct terminology here auto correct and big thumbs pending.
I grabbed the drag link (the one on an angle coming from the steering box/pitman arm) to the steering knuckle (I think). Icould here or at least feel the knock on at least the passenger knuckle side if not both ends. I also noticed there is at least a 1/4" of thread left on that bar on the pitman arm side of the bar. Not sure how much adjustment that is in the grand scheme of things but seems like you can't assume more adjustment is needed when there's still adjustment to be had. The passemgerknuckle side had basically no threads left so I assume whoever adjusted it last (possibly when these spacers were put on) just adjusted until it stopped instead of removing the rod and centering the adjustment (not sure if that's a thing but my OCD tells me that's the way to do it...?). I then grabbed the tie rod bar and both ends had play and I cpuld hear or attain at least feel the knock on both sides. Both bars I was able to rotate a bit by hand easily enoiugh. Wondering why they wouldn't tell me about the tie rod ends having play too, since they aren't covering it under warranty anyway. That doesn't make sense to me, I duno. Anyway it was obvious prettyquick I need drag link ends (if I'm understanding correct here, you just replace the ends, unless the bar is bent(?)...) and I need putter tie rod ends too. I grabbed some seafoam and put a squirt on all the threads I might need to mess with later just cause. The track bar(?) seemed tp be fine from my uneducated check. I guess I'll do some research on self aligning.
Now I'm thinkin if I can just replace the outter tie rod ends and outter drag link ends here, align and call it good until proven otherwise then thats probably the way to go. So far my search is showing not many options for stock parts online, and the ones I've found are like Mevotech or something, which isn't stock Mopar and a brand I've steered away from in the past. MOOg used to be my go to for tie rods n ball joints but not finding much of that fir this unit

 

[The Yeti]

Not sure it matters anymore now that I went out and got under the unit myself. But heres some of those pics from earlier and the Work Order/Quote(FYI I can get the part quoted for at least $30 cheaper from the same place pre discount I usually use there). There are a couple terrible pics for the rear just to see if there was anything aftermarket there too. Also, if that's a spacer at the top of the coil on the front, i measured it and it is 2 1/4" so I'll call it a 2" spacer if that's what it is? measured that View attachment 379436

 

[The Yeti]

And follow up to those, here is a screenshot of the part #'s I'm finding. Can I buy 2 of #5 and #10 and be good or do I need #'s 5, 8, 9 & 10? Second pic is the ends with price if I have to buy the #8 & #9 they would be roughly $500 each plus the other end on each...
So I guess for the tie rod, in the last pic, can I use 2 of #19 or #19 & 20 and for the drag lin in last pic do I need 2 of #6 or #6 & #1? I'm guessing both ends are different and other end is sold as a unit with the entire bar on each from my research in the last couple hours so far? Can someone confirm or deny for me?

 

[Bbannongmu]

I went with Rusty’s aluminum HD steering for 37” tires. Probably overkill for your needs.

 

[The Yeti]

I'm probably going to go the more cost effective route for now, bad timing for a repair. But, I'm not a fan of the greaseable replacements. Prefersealed joints over years of trial and error. Only takes one time of not greasing after going through some water to start the wear. If I price out replacement stock type stuff and it's not much less than better aftermarket I might have to go that route though. Off first look I guess the knuckle end of the drag is the entire long bar and not just the threaded end by the looks of it too.

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