EgulAye's mild hunting build (is it an overland build?)

[EgulAye]

2024/02/22 | 60,354

I ordered some Trim-Lok Rubber Tubing Seal via Amazon. I'm looking forward to installing this along the fenders just like JL Journal explains in this YouTube video. Small pebbles get stuck in there, as do maple tree seeds "helicopters", pine needles, and ice & snow.

2024/03/03 | 60,657
After installing the tube:

The tube ( Amazon ):

I used a broken off paint stick that I whittled and sanded a bit:

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[Brandon Glads]

Great build ! I like it

192.168.100.1 192.168.1.1​

 

[EgulAye]

2024/02/26 | n/a

This isn't a mod to the Jeep, but a tool that I plan to carry around with me.

I sometimes head out on long trips and I'd like to be sure I've got my bases covered with road trip tools; stuff I might need - this is one of them...

This is a jump pack that uses my cordless tool batteries. The tool seems to be well made. The cable is #6 awg welding cable (made in USA), and includes a circuit breaker built onto the top (also funcions as an off switch so you don't have to worry about the clamps touching each other when you're done). I found this item for sale on the Bear Hollow Supply web site. I bought SKU 41900, which fits Milwaukee M18 batteries. They also have jump packs that fit Dewalt and Makita, so be sure you pick the correct item if you go shopping. This was a bit pricy at $120, but a quality item made in the US, this seems worth the cost.

The product info says it's made by KC Innovations, which I found on Facebook. They have a large selection of tool battery accessories. The battery jump start is on page 42 of 56 in the catalog.

Here are a few more photos and the instruction pamphlet that it came with:

 

[EgulAye]

2024/02/27 | n/a

I wish I could mix and match from both the Rubicon and the Mojave. I want the Mojave suspension, reinforcements, iron knuckles, and shocks. I want the Rubicon front locker and low range transfer case. The high clearance fenders, the 4.10 axle ratio, etc too.

I bought a Rubicon in 2020 before I heard of the Mojave. I'm slowly making it what I want...

Fox Series 2.5 shocks Front & Rear -
Reid Racing Cast Iron Front Knuckles - TBD
Small 1-1/2" Lift Front & Rear -
Skid plates & armor - TBD
FAD delete and manual locking hubs (front axle disconnect) - TBD

 

[EgulAye]

3/16/2024 | 61,296

The jeep is almost four years old, and has over 60,000 miles. It turns out there is a cabin air filter, which has never been replaced. It was super ready to swap out, the old one was quite dirty.

I went to Filterheads.com, ordered part number AQ1286, I bought three of them for $15 or so (buy two get three deal).

I should add that the steps are a little more involved than the directions state.
1. Open the glove box.
2. Empty the glove box.
3. Release the retention at the top of the glove box by pressing up on the dash trim that prevents it from falling out.
4. Allow the glove box to swing out towards the floor.
5. There is a long slender plastic cover over the filter, directly behind where the glove box is when closed. Remove it by squeezing the clip on the end and pulling towards yourself. Note which side was facing out.
6. Remove the old filter. I used needle nose pliers to grab it. There isn't enough space for the filter to slide out but it is very flexible so just keep pulling and allow it to deform.
7. Remove the cellophane wrap from the new filter.
8. Insert the new filter where the old one was located. Remember that you'll have to deform it a bit.
9. Reinstall the cover. The tang on the end will fit into an unseen slot. It's not too difficult to do by feel, if you remembered which side is supposed to face out.
10. Lift the glove box up. There is a slider bracket on the left side that needs to be reinserted in the roller device in the dash for the soft release to work properly.
11. Push the glove box closed all the way.
12. Test operation.
13. Return the glove box contents as appropriate.

 

[EgulAye]

3/17/2024 | 61,369

Yesterday I ran the new six gauge wire to the bed. It took a while to route the wires in a way that should avoid getting pinched or otherwise damaged. I ran two conductors, one with red insulation, the other with black. I put them together in a split wire cover to help protect them.

Today I terminated the ends and installed the circuit breaker. I think the install is pretty clean, except for the extra sharpie marks in the bed where I changed my mind on location. Next will be to put an Anderson connector on the air compressor and give the new setup a test.

Red heat shrink ( NAPA )
Black heat shrink ( NAPA )
Hydraulic crimp tool ( Harbor Freight )
Dielectric silicone grease ( Amazon )

 

[EgulAye]

3/17/2024 | 61,369
Bed Power continued...

 

[EgulAye]

3/17/2024 | 61,369

Bed power / Air compressor cord.

I decided to keep the #10 AWG cord into the compressor. It's relatively short and larger than what came on it originally. Now there is a new Anderson SB50 connector on it. For these I crimped and then soldered the terminals. Small heat shrink on the conductor up to the terminal and then larger heat shrink around the crimped part of the connector and the conductor.

I ran the compressor for a couple minutes. It seems to be working normally.

 

[EgulAye]

Next up: Rock Lights from Baja Designs

Installation Instructions

Illuminated switch

 

[EgulAye]

4/6/2024 | n/a

I picked up a Dorman oil filter housing replacement kit today.

926-959
Upgraded Aluminum Engine Oil Filter Housing with Oil Cooler and Filter
( Dorman ) ( Advance Auto ). I got mine at Advance Auto because they had the kit on hand and were offering a $50 discount for online orders.

I've noticed a wet oily film on the top of the engine for a while, so I'm guessing it's coming from this prone-to-fail part. (turns out it's the valve covers and stuff attached to those)

This will be a bit more involved than other work I've done to the Jeep, so I went looking for YouTube videos so that I wasn't surprised during the process. This is my daily driver and I might not have another ride to go get something if I get stuck.

Motor City Mechanic : What's up with the plastic oil filter housing? 16m long
*ATEM Offroad: Install Video, lots of detail. 26m long (note this is for a less complete package)
Dorman : product video, general overview
Sturkie Hands!!, for this exact part number. 24m long
* ATEM's video was the best, though the upper intake manifold is a slightly different shape for the Gladiator vs. his Wrangler, with one additional bolt to torque down.

T30 bit (dust cover) or a 10mm socket
E8 socket, the one I got was a 1/4" drive and was perfect.
27mm deep socket (oil pressure sensor)
19mm deep socket (oil temperature sensor)
15/16" wrench for the sensor swap
8mm socket
10mm socket
Various needle nose and channel lock pliers
A small pick for getting electrical connectors to pop open and to remove the oil seals.
A small flat head screwdriver for the electrical connectors and as a pry bar in a couple instances.
Various 1/4" drive extensions, a universal joint, and a ratchet.

 

[EgulAye]

4/7/2024 | 62,256
I installed rain gutters today, replaced the wipers, and applied RainX to all the exterior glass.

Picture malfunction w/ the cell phone, so I re-took some after photos today on the 10th

I used the rain gutter part by JVMA, but I didn't realize when purchasing that the gutter glues to the inside of the freedom top gutter as well as to the A pillar. I know I'll be taking the freedom tops off a lot, so I cut that piece off. ( Amazon ).

 

[EgulAye]

4/14/24 | 62,835
Today was the oil filter housing replacement. I also changed the oil while I was at it.

All told the job took us about six hours. There was a fair bit of time spent getting tools out and picking everything up, plus a bit extra to remove the upper manifold after I'd torqued it down - oops. I'd taken the oil filler extension off to make the upper manifold easier to install, but forgot to re-attach it before bolting the manifold down. My girlfriend and youngest son were here to help hold things, pass me tools, and generally move the project along more efficiently.

The coolant hose at the rear of the housing is just low enough that it continually dripped coolant into the valley. The oil sensor at the back is the only electrical clip that broke. I used a piece of copper wire to make something to zip-tie to. It's not the best solution but I suspect it will work. Also, the machined surfaces for the intakes have some pretty sharp edges, be careful reaching down in there when cleaning.

Oily residue on everything associated with the intake manifolds. Everything got wiped down before re-installing.

The front of the two valve covers are leaking a bit. This is clearly above the oil filter housing.

The new oil filter housing looks great. This seems to be a very well built item.

The oil sensor my 2020 Gladiator has needed a 15/16" wrench. It's also the only sensor installed on the back of the oil filter housing. I used Teflon tape on the threads. The other port got the provided plug installed. The plug was pre-sealed with thread sealant, so I left that on there.

All finished, oil pressure came up and the truck runs. I'll give her a good test run in the morning.

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