Good Deal/Possible?

[Waffen6]

Been wanting to add a level kit to my 22 Rubicon and add 35" tires. Seemed like the best idea as Id like to keep my factory wheels. Problem is Id like to stick with AT tires and spending $1300+ for 2" larger tires seemed crazy as I like the factory Wildpeaks and was going to get them in 35s. Was looking today and get a decent discount on tires through work and can get 37x12.5R17 BFG TA KO2s for $300 a piece, now they are only the C range but sounds like a great deal. Now if I do my 2" leveling kit from what Ive seen they should fit but problem is the factory wheels. Id like to not run spacers, will not be doing any rock crawling so is it possible these would work or do I need to break down and get new wheels as well?
Also by next year this will be my daily driver, only drive 10 miles to work so not a huge deal but would the 4.10 gears suffice?

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[dmwphoto]

C range is the best unless doing SERIOUS rock crawling or off road. They are 6 ply and the E range K02s are 10 ply. Much heavier and will seriously impact fuel economy and ride quality.

 

[Kajo]

I have been running 37x12.5R17 BFG TA KO2s, C rated, on stock rims for over a year with a 1 3/4" level front 3/4" puck in the rear. They have held up fine to everything I have done including rock crawling. AOAA blues/blacks, Rausch Creek blues/blacks, Pott's Mountain. Uwharrie, Windrock plus heading to Moab in May. I currently have 12,000 miles on the tires.

I still have 4.10's and have averaged about 18 MPG day to day and on highway trips 19/20 if I keep it under or around 70 MPH. I air them at 33 PSI cold which increases to between 35/37 on the highway and seem to be wearing well. Also the spare fits in the stock location which is a plus.

Last year I did not seem to rub at all but a few weeks ago at Rausch Creek I finally got some rubbing on the front inner fenders. I added Metalcloak Undercloak belly skids this winter so I am guessing the extra weight cause that new issue.

 

[Waffen6]

I have been running 37x12.5R17 BFG TA KO2s, C rated, on stock rims for over a year with a 1 3/4" level front 3/4" puck in the rear. They have held up fine to everything I have done including rock crawling. AOAA blues/blacks, Rausch Creek blues/blacks, Pott's Mountain. Uwharrie, Windrock plus heading to Moab in May. I currently have 12,000 miles on the tires.

I still have 4.10's and have averaged about 18 MPG day to day and on highway trips 19/20 if I keep it under or around 70 MPH. I air them at 33 PSI cold which increases to between 35/37 on the highway and seem to be wearing well. Also the spare fits in the stock location which is a plus.

Last year I did not seem to rub at all but a few weeks ago at Rausch Creek I finally got some rubbing on the front inner fenders. I added Metalcloak Undercloak belly skids this winter so I am guessing the extra weight cause that new issue.

Really appreciate that, have any pictures by chance? Did not want any rubbing, will be mainly on road minus some backwoods trails, no rock crawling.

 

[Kajo]

Really appreciate that, have any pictures by chance? Did not want any rubbing, will be mainly on road minus some backwoods trails, no rock crawling.

I am not a big picture taker but here are a few from my phone.

 

[Waffen6]

I am not a big picture taker but here are a few from my phone.

Awesome thanks, its like my twin. Mines a black rubicon and just installed the Arcus bumper as well.

 

[ZoMojave]

I still have 4.10's and have averaged about 18 MPG day to day and on highway trips 19/20 if I keep it under or around 70 MPH.

Folks, I think we have a winner here!

Not sure how you can squeeze that kind of mileage on 37's. You must have the light foot touch.

For me it's never any more than 17 MPG in the summer. 14 MPG in the winter for on 33's with 4.10's. ?

 

[Kajo]

Folks, I think we have a winner here!

Not sure how you can squeeze that kind of mileage on 37's. You must have the light foot touch.

For me it's never any more than 17 MPG in the summer. 14 MPG in the winter for on 33's with 4.10's. ?

Believe what you want to believe but my wife does say I drive like a grandpa. I have found anything over 70 mph and my gas mileage drops considerably.

Also, just curious what tire and wheel combo are you running? The 37" KO2 C is the same weight as the stock wildpeak:

and it seems to have less rolling resistance and a larger diameter although I will be the first to say it should be labeled a 36" and not 37" tire. Why at cruising speed would this setup not be comparable to a stock Gladiator Rubicon with the stock Wildpeaks?

 

[ZoMojave]

Not doubting what you state for your mileage. We just often compare here.

I am running load range C KO2's in the stock (Mojave) size of LT285/70R17. True diameter according to BFG is 32.8" with a weight of 51.4 lbs. Wheels are Quadratec Gunmetal 41 with a weight of 31 lbs.

But as we have all said in the past as we compare, these JT's were not built for mileage!

 

[STORY]

Been wanting to add a level kit to my 22 Rubicon and add 35" tires. Seemed like the best idea as Id like to keep my factory wheels. Problem is Id like to stick with AT tires and spending $1300+ for 2" larger tires seemed crazy as I like the factory Wildpeaks and was going to get them in 35s. Was looking today and get a decent discount on tires through work and can get 37x12.5R17 BFG TA KO2s for $300 a piece, now they are only the C range but sounds like a great deal. Now if I do my 2" leveling kit from what Ive seen they should fit but problem is the factory wheels. Id like to not run spacers, will not be doing any rock crawling so is it possible these would work or do I need to break down and get new wheels as well?
Also by next year this will be my daily driver, only drive 10 miles to work so not a huge deal but would the 4.10 gears suffice?

Let me add my 2 cents worth from my own personal experience and see if this helps in some small way:
I bought a used 2020 JTR 3 months ago. I've been chasing a ride quality issue where I almost get motion sickness from all the left to right sorta bouncing and swaying mine has. I bought it used and the dealer, or prior owner, had just installed BFG's in 35x12.5x17 Load range C on the stock Ruby wheels. After replacing shocks, steering TSB and sway bar, I concluded it was in my tire wheel combo.
Now, The tire charts all say a 35x12.5 needs a minimum Rim width of 8" and suggested rim width of 8"-10". So, right out the gate I had more tire bulge than recomended from running the stock 71/2" rims with 12.5 tires. . Now, couple that with a way larger & taller than factory tire, rated at C load range, vs the heavier factory E rated tires and that all accounted for the sidewall roll and a lot of left to right pushing around. So, you can do the combo you want, but just know without increasing rim width or tire load range, it's probably going to drive more like an 82 CJ. I think this combo of BOTH the C load range 12.5 wide tires on factory 71/2" rims is the reason a lot of people have ride quality issues. Maybe someone else running a similar wheel / tire combo can chime in. Hope this helps.

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