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I Need Some T30 Torx Bolts For the Trail Rail.

Godfadr

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Trail Rail System was a blast to install after the fact (factory bedliner). NOT :)

I need to pick up some T30 Torx Bolts. I would like them to match. I couldn't find the part number on the MOPAR site.
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uplandgunner

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My trail rail had 6mm bolts with 10mm hex heads on them. After getting Line-Xed I did manage to break one bolt off because of the line=x in the hole. I managed to drill it through and then it backed out using a vise grip. Put a SS bolts and washer in till I can get a replacement bolt. Let us know when you get a part #
 

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You should never use a tap, but thread chasers work really well to clean threaded holes. Even better, use a cutoff wheel and a longer version of the same size bolt. Cut three grooves perpendicular to the threads the length and the threads. Then use that bolt to cut through and remove all the overspray. Works great!
 

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uplandgunner

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You should never use a tap, but thread chasers work really well to clean threaded holes. Even better, use a cutoff wheel and a longer version of the same size bolt. Cut three grooves perpendicular to the threads the length and the threads. Then use that bolt to cut through and remove all the overspray. Works great!
You're talking to a 40 year veteran as a tool and die maker. I could prolly school you all day as to the do's and not do's when it comes to holes, threads, taps and dies. The bolt broke as I was backing it out. Sometimes the weirdest shit just happens.

I was a little pissed with Line-X as I asked them to plug the holes. Hell I would have left the bolts partially in had I known.

Broken bolt was tight. Wouldn't back out with just a vice grip. Drilled a hole through the center of the broken bolt and that relieved the pressure enough to back it out.

If that didn't work and an easy didn't I would have went to the tap drill size and then re-chased the threads.
 

WhatExit?

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You're talking to a 40 year veteran as a tool and die maker. I could prolly school you all day as to the do's and not do's when it comes to holes, threads, taps and dies.
Careful now, young people today don't want to be spoken to like that. Their parents taught them their "sensitivies" are precious and must be protected.

Jeep Gladiator I Need Some T30 Torx Bolts For the Trail Rail. Screen Shot 2020-03-10 at 5.13.35 PM
 

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OMG, I need an adult...and a safe space!

Help me...someone.
 

uplandgunner

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Oh Yeah, if makes you feel any better. That was a "Shit, I can't believe I did that moment... I should have known better. Been retired for over 10 years … Starting to lose the touch but not the skills.
 

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I often go to grade 12.9 allen head capscrews, 170,000 psi which exceeds 10.9 or the US grade 8 (150,000). All too often aftermarket stuff comes with grade 8.8 (120,000), or stainless which is usually even weaker. It will all match if I replace all the fasteners :)
 

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I often go to grade 12.9 allen head capscrews, 170,000 psi which exceeds 10.9 or the US grade 8 (150,000). All too often aftermarket stuff comes with grade 8.8 (120,000), or stainless which is usually even weaker. It will all match if I replace all the fasteners :)
You can be my go-to guy for hardware and fastener advice :handsinair:
 

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I often go to grade 12.9 allen head capscrews, 170,000 psi which exceeds 10.9 or the US grade 8 (150,000). All too often aftermarket stuff comes with grade 8.8 (120,000), or stainless which is usually even weaker. It will all match if I replace all the fasteners :)
Do you know the thread size and length for theses? Does anyone have that info?
Trying to get some screws/bolts/hooks to have some additional tie down points for light duty stuff
 

anavrinIV

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Do you know the thread size and length for theses? Does anyone have that info?
Trying to get some screws/bolts/hooks to have some additional tie down points for light duty stuff
M6 x 20mm should work, pick your head design. Personally I would run pan head Torx to keep the head profile low.

The reality is 12.9 is way overkill, 10.9 is overkill, and 8.8 is perfectly fine for the trail rails. These bolts should never fail in tension, you'll pull the rails apart before popping the screw. The screws act mainly in shear when you add mounts and cross bars, and unless you are using ridiculously stout bars they will bend significantly (or the vertical mounts that attach to the rails will) before you shear the bolts. Personally I would not run stainless as stainless has embedded chromium that can chew up low carbon steel (bed side threads) with repeated insertion and removal. Black oxide will hide well.
 

tfranks

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M6 x 20mm should work, pick your head design. Personally I would run pan head Torx to keep the head profile low.

The reality is 12.9 is way overkill, 10.9 is overkill, and 8.8 is perfectly fine for the trail rails. These bolts should never fail in tension, you'll pull the rails apart before popping the screw. The screws act mainly in shear when you add mounts and cross bars, and unless you are using ridiculously stout bars they will bend significantly (or the vertical mounts that attach to the rails will) before you shear the bolts. Personally I would not run stainless as stainless has embedded chromium that can chew up low carbon steel (bed side threads) with repeated insertion and removal. Black oxide will hide well.
Thank you!
Black Oxide will look nice with the black bed rail covers too. I probably wont be using them to tie down any heavy loads but with only the 2 D-Ring tie-downs in the lower front corners I was hoping to add more easy access attachment points. Only had the truck a few days...first use will just be to hold up the freedom panels in their storage case so they don't slide all over the truck bed.

BTW, I just stumbled across the Nite Ize Figure 9 rope tightener and CamJam rope tighteners that look like super convenient gadgets for these applications. Just thought I'd share
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