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Sazabi19

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So I have my Sport S with Max Tow and it's leased for 3 years (will be up in 4/23, I have some time) but at the end of my lease I'm not sure what I'd like to do. As of right now I'd love to go for a Rubi but that would be a whole new set of payments and essentially just throwing away what I've paid already (or parents will take it?), which is what happens when you lease, sure. I'm no stranger to that if that's what it comes down to I'm fine.

My real dilemma comes in when I think about what I'm really missing on the Rubi vs. my truck now. I know it has 33s, 1" lift over my truck + fox shocks, more skidplates and metal brush guard on the bumper, electronic swaybar disconnects, rear locker? (always get confused with that), and maybe something else I'm not remembering? I don't actually tow anything but wanted to wide Danas, HD cooling and brakes, and the 4.10 gears (just in case really).

If I don't plan on doing any super serious offroading or rock crawling, what am I really missing? I can add a lift (don't want a huge lift), some new wheels and tires for a bit of height (35s max), and front swaybar disconnects for decently cheap. Is there really anything else I'm missing that I'd want to step up to a rubi for? I'd love to have a warranty on all of that and would probably have my dealer install all of it. I have to assume adding the parts I mentioned above would still bring me lower than the cost difference of my truck and a rubi. Is there anything else I would want/need to add to be comparable?

The only thing is that I'm also waiting to see what's going to happen with both the Bronco and the Wrangler 4xe. I'm really excited at the prospect of the 4xe because that 50 mile electric range would be perfect for my work commute plus a bit more. The shorter daily drive is why a diesel won't work out for me despite wanting it. I also really want to see how that Bronco comes out and maybe Jeep will change some things around for us for the better due to the increased pressure and competition, it can only benefit us.

Also, why are new/additional skid plates so damn expensive!? And what additional ones would I most likely want for easy/medium offroading and no rock crawling (that I know of). Any thoughts/discussion is appreciated.
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Phljeeper

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If you don’t rock crawl you don’t need a Rubicon. The higher fenders allow bigger tires without a lift, lockers help when tires are off the ground crawling on rocks, disconnects help keep the tires on the ground in off camber off roading. 4:1 transfer case allows low speed 4 low crawl and 4.10 gearing helps with bigger tires or a heavier load, wide axles help with the stance adding stability. All that said, you can add a lift, tires and bumpers and make your sport look good just like you can with a rubicon. You stated in your original post you don’t rock crawl so unless you change that you don’t need the rubicon and will likely never use the differences. You also have no need for skid plates if you don’t rock crawl.
 
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Sazabi19

Sazabi19

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If you don’t rock crawl you don’t need a Rubicon. The higher fenders allow bigger tires without a lift, lockers help when tires are off the ground crawling on rocks, disconnects help keep the tires on the ground in off camber off roading. 4:1 transfer case allows low speed 4 low crawl and 4.10 gearing helps with bigger tires or a heavier load, wide axles help with the stance adding stability. All that said, you can add a lift, tires and bumpers and make your sport look good just like you can with a rubicon. You stated in your original post you don’t rock crawl so unless you change that you don’t need the rubicon and will likely never use the differences. You also have no need for skid plates if you don’t rock crawl.
I've used my skid plates already a couple times on a trail, deep ruts in mud holes. I scraped the bottom in a mud hole or 2 and once going over a bump, truck was a bit long for it I guess. It was my first time offroad. Everything looked good underneath but seeing as how I used them already I figured I may want more for other sensitive areas. And I thought the high clearance fenders were just for that, clearance, not necessarily rock crawling. I have gone up 20 degree inclines on both dirt and rock so far, it was fun.
 

anavrinIV

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With s max tow you already have the wide axles and 4.10s, really you're missing the lockers (front and rear) and ele tric sway disconnect. You can find a set of fenders if you want the high lines and add the rest aftermarket. Hardest part is the t case but for most offloading the standard box is fine
 

brianinca

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I agree, the standard t-case is plenty for even serious playing. You've seen pictures of the Mojave's running around in the rocks, it's a matter of degrees. Yes, I want a 4:1 Atlas for my YJ now, but hey, it's a Jeep.

Your Jeep isn't going to get hurt scraping a bit over mudholes, there is plenty of protection without being a Rubicon. You've got the axle gearing to help, and there will be traction upgrades at SOME point if you want lockers or limited slips. Quick swaybar disconnects are an easy and inexpensive upgrade and make the ride on rough roads SO much better!

Think in terms of shock upgrades, as well - there are a tremendous number of choice upgrades available to you without having to take the hit of swapping to a new truck.

With s max tow you already have the wide axles and 4.10s, really you're missing the lockers (front and rear) and ele tric sway disconnect. You can find a set of fenders if you want the high lines and add the rest aftermarket. Hardest part is the t case but for most offloading the standard box is fine
 

HorneyBadger

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My Overland goes everywhere my buddies Rubi goes! We dont do extreme rock crawling but have gone in some pretty hairy areas. It's all about approach.
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