Parking light wire for trigger switch

[chorky]

You have to get up to the connector between the fender liner and body, about straight up from the top of the shock.
I'll know more tomorrow.

I don't know if this is their official part number or not but the packing slip I got says:

ADPTR-SWB

Description:
switchback adapters for 9" Oculus

funny. This part doesnt exist on their website. So I called them and they were all kinds of confused and didnt understand. They suggested I send them a picture. Lol. So I guess I will screenshot the forum and discussion you had on the other thread and email them. sounds like it might have been a one off build kinda situation.

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[ShadowsPapa]

funny. This part doesnt exist on their website. So I called them and they were all kinds of confused and didnt understand. They suggested I send them a picture. Lol. So I guess I will screenshot the forum and discussion you had on the other thread and email them. sounds like it might have been a one off build kinda situation.

It's likely sold only with their lights as far as their web site.

I am still putting mine in place.
Left side a breeze - took out two screws, pulled the liner back, pulled the connector out of the hole in the body (held in using a christmas tree type push-in thing).
Once I popped out, it dropped 2 or 3 inches and I could release the latch and plug my setup in place. I put it all back, tested and the left side worked. Maybe 30-40 minutes start to finish on the left if you don't count taking the wheel off. That's almost a must as it's just behind the top of the shock way up there as you lay under they truck looking up.
This is one time I wish I was taller with longer arms LOL
The right side- a pain. Everything electrical is there and in the way. I had to take my splash guard off to get the liner to move enough (luckily I have just 5 POM rivets left!!)
I finally have it in place after about 1 hour and am about to go back to the garage to test the connections before putting everything back in place.
Tip - plenty of dielectric grease makes those connectors snap into place so much more easily.
My hands have so much of the stuff even after wiping and wiping, if I touch tape, it won't stick to anything. Call me slick, I guess.

 

[chorky]

It's likely sold only with their lights as far as their web site.

I am still putting mine in place.
Left side a breeze - took out two screws, pulled the liner back, pulled the connector out of the hole in the body (held in using a christmas tree type push-in thing).
Once I popped out, it dropped 2 or 3 inches and I could release the latch and plug my setup in place. I put it all back, tested and the left side worked. Maybe 30-40 minutes start to finish on the left if you don't count taking the wheel off. That's almost a must as it's just behind the top of the shock way up there as you lay under they truck looking up.
This is one time I wish I was taller with longer arms LOL
The right side- a pain. Everything electrical is there and in the way. I had to take my splash guard off to get the liner to move enough (luckily I have just 5 POM rivets left!!)
I finally have it in place after about 1 hour and am about to go back to the garage to test the connections before putting everything back in place.
Tip - plenty of dielectric grease makes those connectors snap into place so much more easily.
My hands have so much of the stuff even after wiping and wiping, if I touch tape, it won't stick to anything. Call me slick, I guess.

Ok so here is another question.....


Current configuration (using SwitchPros)

• Switch 1
  • powers BajaDesigns XL80 flood
• Switch 2
  • powers BajaDesigns XL80 spot
• Switch 3
  • grounds flood lights to dim them
• switch 4
  • grounds spot lights to dim them

I want to switch it up (using SwitchPros)

• Switch 1
  • Powers floods
• Switch 2
  • Powers spots
• Switch 3
  • grounds both floods and spots to dim them
• switch 4
  • powers both flood and spot lights through a relay that is CLOSED when the brights are turned on

So this means putting a relay on the brights circuit. But a couple things

• power wire must go from vehicle module to birghts
  • splits into 2
    • one leg continues to the brights
    • one leg goes to the relay activation, and then ground

So some questions

• will splitting the power side of the brights so that it can activate (close) a relay cause too much power and trip a code or 'bulb out' warning?
• Lights will get power from two sources from the same SwitchPro's module
  • this means output for switch 1, 2, and 4 need a diode to prevent back feeding power
  • how does one identify what size of a diode is needed?
    • a pair (2) of the XL80s draw 11 amps
    • 4 of them then draw 22 amps

By deductive reasoning, this means that, to be safe, each power feed of switch 1, 2, and 4 need a 25 amp diode to prevent back feeding? You know path of least resistance and all.... I did a very quick amazon search and only found up to a 20a diode

 

[chorky]

In a sense, we are doing similar.
I have to get into the left turn, park, DRL, right turn on my truck to trigger the correct lights on the snow plow.
I received the Oracle adapters today and with luck, they come with a pigtail already tapped into the turn, park and ground wires.
So I'll take their tap off the park of one of the adapters and move it to the DRL of that one and be able to take park and left turn off one side, and DRL and right turn off the other and leave their ground alone as it's not hurting anything.

I bought the other side of that small round black connector from Amazon and will wire that to the plow harness when it arrives.
To be fair to Oracle, I took off their wrap and shielding to get to the wires inside as I do need to move the small red wire off the large red wire and to the white wire to get the DRL signal, don't need park signal from both sides.
But this will be a plug and play solution, I won't be cutting the truck's factory harness and won't be messing with the plow harness other than putting the small round black connector on the ends of their loose wires.

I ended up ordering the same connecters since its a clean solution. But I am curious what screw connector you ordered from Amazon. I found a few different styles and not sure if theyre all compatible. Also curious if you experienced it disconnecting. Not sure if it locks into place like a normal connector would. I havent used these types before.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I ended up ordering the same connecters since its a clean solution. But I am curious what screw connector you ordered from Amazon. I found a few different styles and not sure if theyre all compatible. Also curious if you experienced it disconnecting. Not sure if it locks into place like a normal connector would. I havent used these types before.

I ordered a set of those connectors (screw type) from Amazon and replaced the one they had because what I ordered didn't fit theirs, I didn't want to mess around ordering multiple to find the right one, and those I ordered came with both sides - male and female.

So I cut off about 6" from their thin black lead with the black, red and yellow wires and used sealing heat shrink and soldered on my new ends.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071NCK9WW

These are much like what they used on their LED bumper mount back up lights except those are two wire only while these are 3 wire.

This is one - I put this on their black lead instead of the one they had there. These are rigid while the one they supplied was soft and pliable. These also plug together better.

As far as the connection to the factory harness - it went together really snug. I didn't pull REAL hard, it was really tough to reach up in there, but things seemed to stay put. If I have trouble, I'll be better prepared next time and pull the fender liner clear out per the video another member posted and not fuss trying to save time and fasteners. I suspect I cost myself more time by being stubborn and not pulling the liner clear out.

 

[chorky]

I ordered a set of those connectors (screw type) from Amazon and replaced the one they had because what I ordered didn't fit theirs, I didn't want to mess around ordering multiple to find the right one, and those I ordered came with both sides - male and female.

So I cut off about 6" from their thin black lead with the black, red and yellow wires and used sealing heat shrink and soldered on my new ends.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071NCK9WW

These are much like what they used on their LED bumper mount back up lights except those are two wire only while these are 3 wire.

This is one - I put this on their black lead instead of the one they had there. These are rigid while the one they supplied was soft and pliable. These also plug together better.

As far as the connection to the factory harness - it went together really snug. I didn't pull REAL hard, it was really tough to reach up in there, but things seemed to stay put. If I have trouble, I'll be better prepared next time and pull the fender liner clear out per the video another member posted and not fuss trying to save time and fasteners. I suspect I cost myself more time by being stubborn and not pulling the liner clear out.

I figured that would be the case so I probably will use this style since it matches my off road lights

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I figured that would be the case so I probably will use this style since it matches my off road lights

And for that 10 bucks, I have extras!
They screw together, have an o-ring seal and I used anti-ox grease when putting them together. I do wash the engine bay now and then.

 

[chorky]

And for that 10 bucks, I have extras!
They screw together, have an o-ring seal and I used anti-ox grease when putting them together. I do wash the engine bay now and then.

do you have led or normal bulbs?

 

[chorky]

Nvm I had a moment of dumb

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