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Power distribution and wire management - multiple topics

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chorky

chorky

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So I contacted ARB. Out of curiosity. Found out they're in my home state, pretty cool. Anyway, they were not willing to comment on the wire gauging even in their own factory harness. But they sent me to Expedition Essentials.

https://expeditionessentials.com/co...ts/bedside-compressor-mount-extension-harness

Some great guys over here. We chatted about some things I have going on. Turns out they have a ARB Twin compressor harness extension at 10'. Plug and play. Wish I had known about them and it would have saved me a lot of time. But since I have my own wire I will continue with the plan. For others though, I highly recommend these folks. They also have a harness for single compressors. For the cost they advertise you would reduce a lot of potential headache and sourcing of wires. Turns out also that they use a high temp wire as well so another safety precaution.

So if you need to extend your wire run for ARB compressors, go visit Expedition Essentials in Washington.
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For the cost they advertise you would reduce a lot of potential headache and sourcing of wires. Turns out also that they use a high temp wire as well so another safety precaution.
Agreed it would be easier, would be ready to run where you need and hook it up.

I've started to switch over to silicone insulated wire for a lot of things. High strand count, and super flexible insulation. It's rated to 200 C
 
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chorky

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Agreed it would be easier, would be ready to run where you need and hook it up.

I've started to switch over to silicone insulated wire for a lot of things. High strand count, and super flexible insulation. It's rated to 200 C
This stuff I have currently is EPDM https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Weld...fos.006c50ae-5d4c-4777-9bc0-4513d670b6bc&th=1

Everything I looked up about it seemed good. Not sure how I feel about the small strands yet though...but it is more surface area for voltage to pass through. I guess we will see. The folks I called today did say it's the 'cheap' stuff. Maybe, considering it's from amazon lol

I am goin got use it. Their harness is not very expensive for what you get, but I already have 50' of red and black in 8 ga, and another 50' of red and black in 6 ga. So plenty to run 2 wires each. And a shame to not use it since I have it. In the future though, or for others, I would recommend the pre-built harness now that I know one is out there somewhere.

I am going to use the 8g wire instead of the 6ga. After chatting with the other folks, they are using 10ga, with a 17' harness run. I figure the run from battery to bed/compressor will be 15'. So if they're getting away with 10 ga with no concerning heat buildup, then 8 ga should be plenty fine. I will probably look to downsize the blue sea breaker from 80a to 60a in the future, but for now I think 80a will work. All things said the design should be sufficient and should not pose a burn down threat unless a stick slices open the wires. I am also using this (https://www.amazon.com/100ft-Expand...=&sprefix=wire+loom,aps,176&sr=8-1-spons&th=1) as a wire loom. Oh, and also running one, blue in color, 14 ga 'signal' wire from one of the aux switches to the compressor since the compressor has the relays built into it. I dont particularly like having voltage via 2 8ga wires to the bed always hot... but for now that's the plan since I can't keep this thing torn down forever.

I still haven't figured out though if I need to run ground wires all the way to the battery or if I can use a chassis ground near the bed. It would save a lot of wire, and routing it.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Everything I looked up about it seemed good. Not sure how I feel about the small strands yet though...but it is more surface area for voltage to pass through.
That's not how it works. It's not surface area, it's cross-sectional area. Smaller strands mean more strands and more flex, but the gauge of the total is the same. No difference, especially in DC applications.
"voltage" is pressure. And it doesn't pass through the surface of the wire.
 
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chorky

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So I picked up a couple nut/bolt options to mount the Panel. Could use some advise or thoughts. There were not many options available.

So the phillips is a stainless steel option. The hex is just standard steel. I believe the bed is steel. I did not find an aluminum fastiner option. Yes, dissimilar metals cause issues. I did paint the new leather hole in the bed with rustling and also treated it with amsoil hd metal protect. I prefer the style and fit of the hex bolt. Of course stainless is better for corrosion resistance. Problem is I could not find any washers or nuts that were also stainless. So the washers I have are black zinc. That was really the only option. actually the nuts I have might be stainless lock nuts. Anyway, i will have to treat the area again with more amsoil hd metal protect once installed due to the washers.

So curious what others might suggest. Maybe there is another option I havent considered. The bolts used for the 813 molle panels are also already non stainless as i couldn’t find good options for those either so the underside of the bed is already coated in metal protectant anyway. Maybe the black zinc isnt such a big deal…. Keeping in mind this will see de-icer and road junk. Just not the salt belt type.
 
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chorky

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Projects always take linger than planned even when planned to take longer.

Anyway…trying to rush this job to get my compressor working to blow out some water lines before a winter storm.
got the panel mounted. I opted for the hex bolts and loaded it up with paint and metal protect. Hopefully that starves off some rust for a few years. Its easy enough to replace though. Ran the wires. It was significantly easier than i thought, until getting to the engine compartment. I didnt realize before how close the pre cat is to some wiring already. So after wasting some time wrestling wires I partially removed the fender liner and routed wires under that in order to make it easier and to negate the need to wrap wires in reflective tape. Hopefully tomorrow wiring is finished and the compressor is at least functional until I can get it mounted….in 20 degree temps. :-/


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